Sept 18/09

Finally finished. I finished the ride two weeks ago and have now completed all my entries including pictures into thisblog. Unless I find some big mistakes I won't be making any changes to it.

I thought I'd also answer some frequently asked questions:

- No, I did not ride back home. I flew back.

- My bike weighed about 30lbs and my gear about 50 lbs. One full rear pannier was food. Even though I could and did buy groceries everyday I always had a full bag.

- Stats;
Total distance: 8150.6 km.
Total number of days: 71 days therefore 115 km/day
Number of riding days: 64 days therefore 127 km/day
Longest day: Northern Ontario, 195.75 km, 9:46 hrs


- Where did I stay? Camped 35 nights, Hostels 17 nights, Motels 13 nights, Other 6 nights. (I thought I'd guerilla camp more often but like motels it is quite lonely. I also wanted to take a long shower at the end of each ride, something that can be difficult when you're guerilla camping.)

- Did I lose any weight? I wasn't trying to and it never crossed my mind until I got home and people asked me this question. I did lose about 5-10 lbs but I will likely gain it all back within the next few weeks.

Wednesday September 2, HOME, Burnaby, BC

Last night Sebastian, Chris and I went down to George St to celebrate. One bar was lined up so we figured it must be the best one. Actually it was $2 Tuesday so we drank $2 bottles of beer until it closed. Somehow the three of us lost each other at closing time and we walked back to the hostel separately and arrived from 3 different directions within minutes of each other. I set the alarm for 3 hours later to catch the airplane home. Slightly rushed and may have left a few things behind but made it away. The plane went directly to Calgary with dozens of babies and toddlers on board then 20 minutes later on to Vancouver. Mark picked me up. My bike and luggage arrived with me and undamaged. Spent most of the afternoon catching up with everyone by phone and in person. It's good to see everyone but I could do it all over again starting tomorrow. Unfortunately I have to go back to work tomorrow.

Tuesday September 1, St. John's NL

Rode out to the mall - dollar store for tape and duffel bag. Somebody could make a lot of money putting those stores closer to town. Got what i needed including a new watch without too much trouble. It's funny, store clerks are quick to recommend other stores to satisfy you instead of pushing you to buy what they have. Put the bike in the box but not until taking just about everything off it. I began thinking wheels and handlebars but it also included chainrings, 3 racks, 2 fenders, seat, derailleur, quick release mechanisms and pedals. Did the work on the sidewalk with a neighbour and then with a guy (Sebastian) from Sherbrook who rode from Anchorage!! to here. We are both finished and ready to celebrate.

OD 7905.4 (plus Victoria is well over 8000 km)

Monday August 31 St John's NL

Got up to begin the long task of packing up. Normally pretty quick when leaving a motel but with everything drying including maps and my wallet it takes a long time. Rode downtown, finally saw some pavement older than two years, in less than 20 minutes to City Hall where they have the Mile 0 marker. The sign was nearly impossible to find however it is next door to their Mile One arena which makes sense I guess. Nest went to the hostel I booked for the next two nights. It is unsigned and in the middle of a residential cu-de-sac. It is typical of any of the row houses you see. Slanted floors, hundred years of on-going renovations and very colourful. Met the manager and later the owner. Unpacked and rode out to Cape Spears with no gear on my bike. The bike feels funny without 50 lbs trying to slow it down or laugh at me when a traffic light turns green. Nice ride to the Cape - yes fresh pavement for most of it. As I got there for the 100th time my camera batteries died when a women and I exchanged cameras to take pictures of each other. I swear the batteries die every time I hand the camera to some one. She gave me a spare pair of batteries (since I had no gear with me) and a few minutes later I found a gift shop (where isn't there a gift shop?) and bought some batteries but I couldn't find her to return the ones she gave me. Rode back to the hostel b/c I wanted to get a bike box before it became a panic. One store said none, the other got me the only 700 cm box they had but I have a feeling it will be too small. We;ll see. Came back to have dinner and spent some time with the owner and an electrician estimating the costs of some renovations. He was bilingual - English and Newfie who said "Gawd's 'onest truth, I'd rather shoot myself than 'wire this house." The owner is having a hard time getting insurance b/c the wiring is so old. He left and later Carola left and I had the house to myself. I was wondering if I were the only guest here. Rode to Signal Hill and the Battery neighbourhood. Lots of people run/ walk the route. It must be like their Grouse Grind. 400 to 100 years ago it was probably the perfect defense and harbour but today it just seems too small to be a working harbour. Went for a walk and back to the house. I was still the only one there. Just as I was about to got to bed a young guy visiting from Alberta came in. I guess the two of us have this house to ourselves.

OD 7897.4 km, 52.36 km, 65.0 max

Sunday August 30 Mount Pearl, NL

(Photo: the moon over my campsite)

Light rain on and off overnight but windy, especially here at the edge of the pond so gear is 99% dry. Got going about 8:30 with a forecast that I had that said rain beginning tonight. Not so, 15 minutes into the ride or should I say before leaving the comfort stn at the campground, it starting raining and raining hard. Got to the InforCentre at the TCH soaking wet and was told that we were getting the tail of Hurricane Dan. I didn't know that was in the forecast. Rode another hour in the rain and noticed a minivan with a utility trailer blocking the shoulder of the road. The woman passenger got out and offered me a ride ("the trailer is for your bike" she said). I thanked her, she understood my determination/ stubbornness and off they went. I went a little further and stopped in a tunnel/ underpass, ate and the rain just about stopped. Got back on the road and the wind was unlike anything I have had so far (latter found out 60 -80 km/hr). I thought it was going to pick my bike up off the ground and throw me out onto the road. I preferred it when the road turned southward and it hit me head on and slowed me to ~ 7 km/hr instead of at the side. When I had some cliffs or trees to block the wind somewhat it was bearable but when I was crossing a stretch between ponds (or on a causeway) I was forced to walk! Yes, walk!! My first time this whole trip. Rain started up again, luckily the spray from vehicles did not soak me as their spray all went to one side away form me. I decided to stop at the neXt overpass (more overpasses on this stretch of TCH than all of Sask, Manitoba and Ontario) to find two guys trying to jump start their p/u truck. We talked for a while and they offered me a ride. I took it and they dropped me off at the only place they knew in the suburb of Mount Pearl. Warming up, drying off and doing laundry now.

OD 7845.0 km, 5:40:00, 89.60 km, 15.5 ave, 38.1 max

Sat August 29 Dunville, NL

Took quite a while to fall asleep last night in the dorm not due to dorm mates, the sea or anything external just excited I guess. Without a watch or knowing the time change I don't know when i got up but I think it was pretty late. Beautiful sunny day outside with not much wind. Saw Patrick sleeping behind the model ship display and later we spent the rest of the voyage together. Car deck seems pretty full but passenger decks are pretty empty. Got off the boat in my street clothes so I went to the terminal to change. Two other cyclists were boarding- I didn't get a chance to talk to them - and two others arrived. She is from Kamloops and he is from Toronto they are doing a short fly-bike-rentacar-train trip with the bike portion from St. John's to Halifax. I don't think he knows the first thing about camping or cycling. Boat docked after 2:00 pm so it was a short cycling day for me. The geography and weather are remarkably different after travelling 14 hrs due north. Sometimes is looks like Nunavut, often like northern Ontario without the granite outcrops. The roads don't look like N Ont though. I guess when you are a have-not province you get a lot of federal money to put wide straight highways through the forests serving just a few. Love the way clerks etc call me dear, darling and hon in NS and NF. Don't think you could get away with that anywhere else. Funny sprawling campground here. The owner led me to a few walk in sites by the "pond" but most are RV's on what could be described as a gravel parking lots with acres and acres of bush all around and a mile of gravel roads running all over. I had to walk ~500 m (or drive 1 km) to the showers and tap water.

OD 7755.4 km, 1:23:02, 26.94 km, 19.4 ave, 49.0 max

Friday August 28 MV Joseph and Clara Smallwood, ferry from North Sydney to Argentia, NL

In no rush this morning as I don't need to go far and have until 9:00 pm to check in at the ferry. It rained some on and off last night but with the wind everything is dry. Wind is still really strong, it makes even preparing and eating food a problem as everything gets blown off the table like my helmet and even a peanut butter jar. Took a short cable ferry at Englishtown to save a few kms and met up with a group of cyclists on a guided loop of the Cabot Trail - the package included a van, bikes and a guide for the 5 of them from all over the US (but I assume friends) Stopped at a real restaurant for a late lunch as I was not going to make something in the wind especially if I need to get out my stove and everything. The last part of the ride was back on the TCH, so out came the MP3 player. Great scenery and it climbed over "mountains" and dropped down to cross fingers of Bras D'Or Lakes. Got to N Sidney about 5:00 pm. The bike guide told me N Sydney had no shops or services but he probably hasn't been here for a while. The liquor store, groc store etc are out at the mall at the edge of town. I even found stove fuel. As I was about to get to the boat, Patrick called out to me to join him for some pizza. Patrick is from Trois Riveries and hitchhiking around. I met him at Cheticamp and saw him on the road the next day. He spent today at Louisberg. He is thinking of going to St John's then west to Port a Basque or wherever his driver takes him (Labrador perhaps) The ferry is larger than I expected, slow to load. older but comfortable. I got a dorm-sleeper which is a room with ~50 bunk beds. Each plastic mattress has a pillow and a fleece blanket that doesn't have the same dimensions as the mattress. I loaded with the motorcycles and a group of ATV's. As we had to wait until they loaded the top deck we got to know each other pretty well. I was the only bike and by the actions of the crew you would think the only one this year.

OD 7728.4 km, 6:40:48, 120.19 km, 17.9 ave, 55.0 max

Thursday August 27 Broad Cove Campground, Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Epic ride today. Saw a number of cyclists out today soaking up some hills, wind and switchbacks. No problems at all with my gears and shifter. After two days of wondering if and when the chain would shift now its smooth shifting without a squeak, click or hesitation. Not so with the front tire - 3rd flat in about 5 days which cannot be attributed to bad roads or bad luck but only a tire which has come to the end of its life. Deposited tire at an emergency hut and put on my emergency spare. Will ride without a spare tire for the next 5 days. Yep only 5 days of riding left. If only I could make a couple dollars doing this then I could do it for ever. Today's ride was all in the park except for a couple villages just outside the boundaries where you can get groceries, B&B's, souvenirs and see a thousand billboards. Found out why they call this the "Highlands" Natl Park. Today had four major climbs from sea level to ~ 400 m at 11%, 13%, 8% and 6% grades. I believe them including the 13%. The wind was very strong today with gusts up to at least 60 km/hr. It was from the NE but with the valleys, open water, highlands, passes and ridges it seemed to come from anywhere and not at all. On the 13% down I had to ride my brakes as hard as I could for most of it. I stopped to let some cars pass and had to drag my foot to come to a complete stop. I think on a perfect day on a road bike without gear you could hit 100 km/hr. Luckily there were few cars around so taking the entire lane was easy to do. The guy at the campground booth says they are adding wider shoulders every time they repave so it will only get better. The park has about 25 trail heads and 50 "look offs" so I spent most of the day taking mini-breaks. No long lunches, on the bike from 8 to 5 pm but only 6 hours pedalling so nearly 3 hours being a tourist - including time at the Scot's tartan shop. Only did 105 kms too!! But the boat tomorrow night is only 130 km away. In the tent now, dark ~8:00 pm. So cool that I wore my jacket all day and my pants tonight. It's trying to rain tonight, tried a few times today and a few times last night, 8C when I got up this morning.

OD 7608.2 km, 6:04:10, 104.93 km, 17.2 ave, 62.9 max

Wed August 26 Cape Breton Highlands National Park (just north of Cheticamp NS)

(Photo: Winds picking up)

Got going at a reasonable hour with dry gear and a strong wind at my back. Lots of riding along the water and some white caps building up. However after 60 days or whatever I finally had my first mechanical breakdown. After the PEI dirt and the remains of Hurricane Bill my rear shifter started acting up. It didn't want to do the smallest and largest cogs in the rear. I was blaming it on dirt, 7000+km etc but no the problem was the cable at the shifter (handlebar) end. It snapped leaving me in the smallest cog. My choices: ride for days in 3 gears (maybe) or get to town about 10 km away - Cheticamp - and see what they could do. Luckily the town is the largest I've seen for a few days but of course not big enough for a bike store. I went to the dollar store they had no cable but I did get a few mini screwdrivers etc. The owner said "Yvon can fix it" she got on the phone but couldn't reach him so she sent me to the C0-op hardware store and if no luck there then she said go to the car wash where he works. I went to the hardware store, they had no cable but spent at least 15 minutes tracking Yvon down. They said he was at work, call him after 4:00and he will set you up. Of course I also got a flat tire in the midst of all this, so I fixed the flat, picked up beer, groceries, InfoCentre and decided I would get a campsite and get the bike repaired. Spent some time on it including learning time as I have never repaired that type of shifter/ brake lever. Yvon came, set me up with the cable and extra housing. We had a couple beers and chatted for a while. I gave him some money and he gave me some extra cable just in case for the front cable. After he left I put it all together and I got all 27 gears again, smooth shifting too. May need to make a few adjustments tomorrow but it should be a day and a half to the ferry and I got two days. Met some interesting people today (the Scarecrow guy, Patrick for Trois Riveries and a guy from Minnesota who is solo car camping) Once again, not a very busy National Park campground especially at $30+ per night. Maybe the other side with the RV's, wardens, evening programs etc is busier than this side.

OD 7503.2 km, 2:44:50, 57.74 km, 20.9 ave, 56.0 max

Tuesday August 25 Inverness NS

Got up early to try to adjust to the shorter days to find it was very foggy outside. Luckily the fog burned off very quickly but everything was still very wet. As I was riding out of town I hit a pothole and it sounded like I dropped something. Everything seemed to be in place so I continued on and later found that it was my watch that I had attached to the handlebars that I lost. A while latter my MP3 (FM radio) wouldn't work. Now I figured I had no way of knowing the date or time. My spedometer has a clock but I don't know how to set it, all I know is that it is wrong. Luckily I fixed my MP3 and found my spedometer is only 15 minutes out. I'll use this book to keep track of the days. Got off the freeway - TCH for most of the morning - crossed the Canso Causeway to the "Island" and I am beginning my clockwise loop including the Cabot Trail. Trail? Maybe when it was built to join all the ports 75 years ago but it is a Hwy. Luckily few RV's almost no trucks and only a couple Harley's. Met a couple from White Rock who are doing the same as me in their RV - same pace, no plans, just meeting people and taking things as they come. Also saw them at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Jedique where they have free Celtic music concerts everyday at lunch. Unfortunately we only saw the last bit before they wrapped it up. Seems to be lots of Cape Breton Celtic music everywhere. I'm thinking they sell this area as one of the greatest (automobile) drives in North America but the arts may be better than the geography. I wanted to finish my ride on the early side today but missed the campground (This scenic drive needs to see how they over do signage on PEI) so had to go to the next one. Got here at a reasonable time and it is worth it. They have ~35 cabins and campsites and ~ 1/2 km of their own beach below the cliffs and sand dunes. Amazing sunset after days of rain and days of humidity haze.

OD 7445.2 km, 7:06:26, 146.59, 20.6 ave, 55.0 max

Monday August 24 Antigonish NS

Got up early to no rain and a favourable forecast. With 3 flights of stairs and 1/2 dozen doors etc didn't get going until ~8:30. The route to the ferry was mostly along the TCH but there was very little traffic and very few trucks. Pleasant ride (could say that about all of PEI) until the rain started. It was coming down pretty hard at 11:30 when I arrived for the 1230 ferry. The employees told me I could take my time and get on the ferry anytime but the announcements told people to get to their cars to prepare to load. Everyone was rushing around in the rain so I inhaled some food and joined the rush. I got on the ferry first (like BC Ferries) but I could have waited and got on at any time. It is much like the Vancouver to Vancouver Island ferries - they turn them around every two hours, these ones are just a little smaller. The big difference is they have live music - East Coast fiddle music complete with PEI jabs between jigs and marches. Kept raining while on the boat and for a while after but stopped about 2:30. The InfoCentre people (one on the boat and the one near Pictou) here are not the usual 20-something year old girls but 50-something year old women that are genuinely worried about me and especially with me not making plans or reservations. I had to choose between stopping at ~2:30 or pushing on another 50 km to Antigonish. I pushed on and then it started raining again at ~4:30. On a busy TCH most of the time (the old highway for some of the time)with my MP3 earplugs today. Got into town, got a few groceries and tempted to camp but saw a motel and went in. Rain seemed to stop almost immediately but it was 6:30 when I checked in and it gets dark just past 8:00 pm now. I must change my schedule! Nice motel but the room has no fridge, microwave or even a coffee maker. Good thing I got my gas stove.

OD 7298.6 km, 6:47:01, 147.61 km, 21.7 ave, 53.3 max

Sunday August 23 Charlottetown PEI

Woke up to no rain and decided it was a good time to change tires, fix a slow leak and clean the PEI-dirt off my bike. It started to rain so I did it mostly in my room and in the hall in the basement. Rain only lasted 15 minutes so soon I was out being a tourist in town. Rain and wind finally came in the afternoon but you could hardly call it a hurricane. Power went out for a few minutes. I don't think there was anymore rain than some of my northern Ontario days but I'm glad I wasn't trying to ride in that wind. Spent most of the day eating, reading and talking on the phone.

No riding.

Saturday Aug 22 Charlottetown PEI

Uncomfortable sleep last night mostly due to the humidity. Had the fly pulled back until midnight when the south wind picked up and thunder and lightning approached. Rain didn't arrive, just more humidity and in a closed tent. Got up really early to see the sun rise and explore to find most of the campers up early and packing up (?!) Wind was really strong from the south and the hurricane was expected but not so soon so I don't know why people were in such a rush. Took the long route across the north shore then headed into the wind to Charlottetown. I kept watching the sky wondering when the rain would start. Lots to see in the Natl Park from Anne of Green Gables to Victorian Inn not to mention all the beaches, dunes, swimming areas and cycling trails. Finally decided to turn into the wind and head into town. I was going to get on the Hwy to see all the ice cream parlours, used car lots and big boxes but thought I'd use the Confederation Trail for a bit. Ending up taking the Trail all the way to within a couple blocks of the apartment so i didn't really see the city at all. (Did see the NRC/ U of PEI building, a few factory outlets and a few sport facilities) This apartment is at the edge of the old city so I will see more of that tomorrow. Most of what I did see outside of the old city seems rundown with lots of vacant stores. This building is circa 1865, split into 9 little suites, 3 on each floor owned and run by a hardworking guy who lives out of town. When I arrived in town the clouds disappeared, most don't believe a storm is coming but the weather channel is saying up to 100 mm of rain (but no hurricane) tomorrow so I will stay here tomorrow, keep dry and be a tourist as much as I can.

OD 7151.0 km, 4:26:29, 82.03 km, 18.4 ave, 52.3 max

Friday August 21 PEI National Park (Cavendish)

First up and out from the campground this morning. I noticed yesterday on the map that PEI has "scenic heritage roads." Apparently they are narrow, PEI-dirt, tree lined roads probably often used for movie sets. I decided to try one out. Yep, just like it says, rather difficult to negotiate on skinny tires when it's dry deep sand. Some of it was damp so now my bike is covered with the red soil. I finished the North Loop and stopped at an InfoCentre where I found out the season's first hurricane is approaching and may arrive Saturday evening with 100 mm of rain. Time to try to find a place in Charlottetown, on a weekend, Canada Games in town and probably every camper like me looking for shelter. Got on the phone and I think I found one for tomorrow night. Rode mostly along the main Hwy #2 this morning to Kensington where I did my shopping then headed out to the North coast as a long way to Charlottetown. I arrived at the park later than I had planned, luckily they had campsites open (few motels, B&B's etc along the way had vacancies.) Didn't have much time to explore the park, just a swim in the shallow water. This camp ground seems to be French / Acadian so I'm saying my bonjours all over again. I'm in the heart of Anne of Green Gables territory - who knew it was so popular in French too.

7068.9 km!, 6:18:00, 130.73 km, 20.7 ave, 48.9 max

Thursday August 20 Mill River Prov. Park (Woodstock, PEI)

Slept well with the sounds, winds and smells of the ocean. Got going fairly early b/c I knew it was probably going to be a long day. Lots of kitschy stuff and stops that I just went by like Quilting Museums and E.M. Mongomery's house that she lived in for one year. Stopped in Alberton - good thing as it is probably the only "town" on this end of the island. Picked up baked goods, beer and groceries and didn't see anything other than a general store near the end of the day. Not too may campgrounds on this end of the island either. Saw two private ones that had no trees and Jacques Cartier Prov Park which was quite similar to last night Prov Park and even tonight's Prov Park. This campground is not on the ocean but I had to take it as it was nearly 6:30 pm when I got here. Made it up to North Cape and even Skinners Pond today. Used the abandoned r/r (Confederation Trail) and it is a possibility, even though it is gravel is quite fast, flat of course, straight but not very scenic. May have to adjust my daily schedule as the days are getting shorter. 7 1/2 hr riding days no longer give me enough time to get cleaned up and eat before it is dark.

OD 6938.1 km, 7:34:02, 144.68 km, 19.1 ave, 41.4 max

Wed August 19 Green Park Prov Park, PEI

(Photo: my domestiques)

Slept well last night with the AC and a full belly, got up early and got going. The route to the Confederation Bridge is pretty flat, along fairly major highways and with the wind at my back most of the time I did the 65 km at a 28 km/hr average. Got the shuttle (12 passenger van and trailer for bikes) to PEI to find that the PEI end of the bridge was like an amusement park - excited people running from T-shirt building to ice cream parlour to info centre etc. Even fender benders in the parking lot and angry people arguing with their spouses. InfoCentre people helpful, probably most of us forgetting we are on a tiny island so most questions must seem stupid to them. Like NB they have 4 scenic routes. Better than anywhere else, the r/r has been abandoned completely so there is and end to end bike-ped route with "spur lines" to the cities and ports. Unfortunately it is mostly gravel so I won't be using it. Rode out to Summerside and the "North Cape Coastal Drive". Summerside is hosting the Canada Games at the moment - I believe Charlottetown next week. As I arrived a group of roadies caught up to me as they were practising the road race course. I drafted them for a while - my domestiques - until I saw a liquor store sign. Knowing how difficult it was to find beer in NB I let them go while I did my shopping for dinner. Found out later PEI puts the liquor store directions on the tourist directional signs like they are just another gas stn., museum or B&B. People here are great - near the bridge they ignore the tourists but everywhere else they wave from their porches, mailboxes, from the car. Everyone wants to chat and top up my water bottles. As it was getting close to "quitting time" I headed for this Prov Park. When I was about 6 km away the humid weather with hazy visibility turned to a shower. At first I was liking the light rain and its cooling effect. The clouds didn't look too dark but fearing it could turn to heavy rain I started looking for a place to hide. The sides of farm roads were mostly swampy, impassable ditches or driveways to houses that I didn't really want to use. Then I crossed the bike - ped (r/r) route and it had a covered picnic table. Perfect. The cover wasn't much bigger than the table but when it started to pour and hail briefly, I had to stand on the table, in the downwind corner to keep dry. I made a couple ham and cheese bagels and by the time I was ready to eat them the sun was shining again. Made it to the park to find yet another campground that is under used. They have a couple dozen hut-cabins (I think one in use) a couple dozen unserviced sites - only me and another tent but I haven't seen a person there, and a couple dozen serviced sites (I didn't go over there but they might have 4 RVs.) I'm on the beach - hopefully not a 15m tide here - the swimming is not that great b/c the water is only ~1 foot deep, however I did see 2 party boats - one fishing type boat with about 20 kids jumping from the roof of the cabin. Looks like this campground will be a freebie as the "ranger" just went by in a golf cart cart, said hello and kept going. Twice. I might have a curious skunk in the neighbourhood though.

OD 6793.4 km, 7:09:19, 166.02 km, 23.1 ave, 54.1 max

Tuesday August 18 Sackville NB

Appropriate town name for how I'm feeling. Don't know if it's the heat (38+ on the humidex), trying to be a tourist, all the steep climbs on the side roads or what but for the first time I don't feel like riding. Slept late (cool and windy by the water) lounged around, finally got going and then finished early. Went through Moncton (quite large) and Dieppe (quite Acadian) but generally around and over the chocolate coloured rivers of Petitcodiac and another smaller one. Stopped at the Hopewell Rocks to find they have acres of parking, shuttle buses and gates that look like some kind of amusement park. Unfortunately I would have to spend 24+ hrs there to see it (Mon pm to Wed am actually) but seeing the entrance is enough for me. I wonder if someone could walk to it from the campground, especially for a 5 am low tide? Maybe next time. I think I got the last room here in Sackville as the rest are taken by the road construction crew. Did some chores and wandered about the town. Didn't know they had a big old university here (Mt Allison)- it looks like it could be an "Ivy League" school due to the age and architecture.

OD 6627.4 km, 5:20:34, 103.56 km, 19.3 ave, 51.6 max

Monday August 17 Hopewell Cape NB

Pulled the tent fly back last night and slept with the mosquito net over me. Thought I'd sleep until the dew got me but it never came. I guess I haven't figured out this dew thing after all. Could see the stars but it never cooled enough to make sleeping comfortable until ~3:00 am. tonight I am near the water at Hopewell Cape, the mist-fog is in and the wind is really blowing so it should be cool temps for sleeping. Hopefully not too much thwack-thwack from the tent in the wind. Got my fleece jacket on tonight. I could have made it too Fundy yesterday - 24 km to the park entrance and there is a small tenting campground right there - no showers but there is a lake. Took a swim in the next lake - Bennett Lake I believe then rode on to the Headquarters near the exit of the park. It seemed like 40 km of uphill from the start and then 4 km of downhill to the water - great downhill with some really tight turns. Decided to do the out and back to Wolfe Pt. Lots of steep climbs but not much to see at the end. Headed out, picked up supplies in Alma - a small tourist town on the edge of the National Park. I can now spot the NB liquor store emblem when it's `6" lettering, way back from the road in a 4 block strip of stores and signs. Kind of like Ontario's outlets except the LCBO isn't in neon. Took a 6.5 km out and back to Cape Enrage/ lighthouse. I think I found the steepest climbs yet. They are probably the hiking trails from 100 years ago. Why the road crossed 2 creeks and 3 headlands I'll never know. Apparently this was voted the best views in Canada but it was fog enshrouded so I'll never know. It probably is pretty spectacular but all I wanted to do was eat - refuel form those climbs and headwinds. Got back on the main road and headed for the campground at Hopewell Cape and noticed a funny sound and bump-bump from the back tire. I was afraid to look thinking maybe ignorance is bliss but knew I had to find out. I couldn't believe what I saw: the tread was peeling off the tire exposing the nylon etc of the tire. I figured the tube would find it's way out and boom at any second or if I was lucky just a simple puncture. I kept my speed down, thinking about all the hills I flew down earlier, especially the ones with the sharp turns. Made it to the campground and replaced the tire with my spare in the comfort of my campsite.

OD 6523.7 km, 6:39:39, 124.97km, 18.7 ave, 65.5 max

Sunday August 16 Penobsquis NB

(Photo; the r/r bridge converted to a bike/ped bridge)

Difficult time sleeping last night due to the heat and humidity. It was still hot in the room in the morning but rather pleasant outside so I got rolling as quick as I could. Took the abandoned r/r and bridge to the other side of the river and got onto the #105. Not long after a woman on a road bike caught up to me so I drafted her as we chatted for about an hour. If only I could do the entire trip drafting someone at 30 - 32 km/hr. I then took some back roads from Jemseg to Sussex. The map said taking the main highway it is 115 km. Taking my short cut it was 114 km. Ha! The shortcut was basically a paved logging road, or at least paved at one time and now patched every year with the occasional section of tar and gravel - chip seal I think they call it. Pretty rough but traffic light so I could ride on the driven portion most of the time. Absolutely no services or houses along that route. Hydro poles only near the ends. It appears they log here just like in BC - clearcuts with one or two lone trees left standing and viewscapes - where they leave ~10 m uncut along the sides of the road so you don't notice the clearcut behind. Got to Sussex spent some time at the InfoCentre, ice cream shack, last chance grocery store and found a liquor store! Open on the Sabbath!! Bought 2 cans of beer (Slurpee size) Also found the best place to go on hot days - the walk in cooler at the liquor store. Didn't think I could make it to Fundy National Park so I stopped here at a campground. Apparently I am lucky I didn't arrive 1-2 days earlier as there was a big flea market in town wrapping up and they had taken nearly every motel and campsite around. Settled by 4:30 so lots of time to read up on the attractions ahead, clean my bike and such. Heat wave may be ending - when I called Dawn I could see some dark clouds covering half of the sky and hear thunder in the distance. Amazing how 100+ campers can quickly and quietly make everything secure and move inside their trailers. Two drops of rain fell on me and that seems to be the end except the humidity is now higher, the temperature too probably and the mosquitoes have forced me inside the tent where it is even hotter still. Will get to Fundy early tomorrow but may go Hopewell Cape/ Rocks.

OD 6398.7 km, 6:21:39, 137.50 km, 21.6 ave, 65.2 max

Saturday August 15 Fredericton NB

Slept late as the heat makes it hard to fall asleep. Got rolling on the #165 which is obviously the old TCH with maybe two motels struggling. I hardly saw a car in either direction more often than one every 3 minutes. Unfortunately the #165 becomes a cul-de-sac so I was forced onto the freeway. Pulled out my MP3 player, turned up the volume and rolled along the smooth new pavement. Happy to get off 10 km later, crossed the river and made my own route rather than the tourist Scenic Route. It was quite a bit longer and the road was so bumpy that I often rode in the middle of the lane. Eventually made it to Fredericton and I am quite surprised that it is so small. With the Fathers of Confederation and all that, the Prov Legislature and 200 and some years it's not any bigger than some one industry resource towns. Took the guided walking tour of the Garrison District then ate at the pub and did some of the self guided walking tours. Also had a BBQ hamburger in the Park as they were celebrating Acadian Day. It's true, NB is the only bilingual province. Staying at a hostel again - I don't know why I think they will have AC, of course they don't. This one is really what we call an SRO in Vancouver. It's a mix of HI, Backpackers hostel and tenants in a large apt building (Temp ~ 32C and the girls at the InfoCentre say 38 on the humidex)

OD 6261.2 km, 5:50:50, 119.54 km, 20.4 ave, 62.2 max

Friday August 14 Woodstock NB

Well summer is finally here. Over 32C and tomorrow to be warmer. Filling and refilling my 3 water bottles throughout the day whenever I can. Since Alberta the 3 were usually all I needed for the ride. Still following "the old TCH" and getting lots of advice from locals - the InfoCentres are great for handing out pamphlets but can't answer even simple questions. Mostly farmland today, crossing the St John River a few times including the longest covered bridge in the world at Hartland. I miss Quebec's way of selling beer - just go anywhere including the campground convenience store or any gas stn a buy a couple cans for the night. I've now been here 3 days and have yet to find an ANBL outlet. It's probably easier to buy beer in Nunavut (where they have dry communities). Or maybe everyone drinks at the pub. I went out for "Steak and a Stein" at the pub - beer is only $3.10 a pint. Decided to take a bed at the hostel thinking it would have AC. Nope, but at least it's ground floor so I should survive. It's an old building with some retail on the ground floor and the rest is apt/ student dorms. I got my own room and everything else is shared. Only ~6 people here and only a couple of "hello's." Strange.

OD 6141.7 km, 6:16:11, 118.76 km, 18.9 ave, 58.0 max

Thursday August 13 Grand Falls/ Grand-Sault NB

Finally in the Maritimes and it seems that summer has arrived. Even the locals agree that it finally feels like summer. Today's route basically followed the St John River which is also the border to Maine/ USA. Here at Grand Falls the border changes to a degree of longitude and I have crossed the River. The map shows a freeway that I don't care to use and a somewhat confusing scenic route. They gave me some pamphlets at the Edmunston InfoCentre but not much info so I'm trying to sort through the magazines, maps and such. Apparently the #2 Freeway TCH is only a couple years old which would explain why the roads that I have been on are pretty wide and in relatively good shape. I think I will stay on the scenic route even though the campground owner says bikes are allowed on #2 and it's much faster/ shorter. Today could be summed up as unremarkable. Maybe after 50 days or so on the road that is a good thing ie no dangerous roads, crazy people or bad weather. The NB highways could use a few picnic tables and bathrooms though. Every Quebec town seemed to try to out do each other with their road side stops (rotisseries or something they called them) but not one that I can think of since arriving in NB. Seeing trains again - was there a strike? I do have to get to a phone to do some catching up and plan making, The one at this campground is the home phone and everyone is in the next room watching TV or in the kitchen.

OD 6022.9 km, 6:38:16, 134.46 km, 20.2 ave, 54.2 max

Wed August 12 St. Marc du Lac Long PQ

(Typical lunch spot)

Got up at 7:00 am to sunshine, Difficult to get up earlier and respect the quiet hours, Didn't see G stir and did not see S (but she is camped further away). Good scenic ride along the St Lawrence at times right against the water. Wonder what happens during big wind storms? Turned away and headed in land just before noon. I could feel the temperature rising and the heat of the sun immediately. Lots of rolling hills, lots of picnic stops and still some head winds. Took a campsite ~ 20 km from New Brunswick border. Saw lots of cyclists again today. Many with full panniers all heading the other direction. I should have stopped to talk to one guy who had 4 big panniers and a full trailer! When I arrived at this campground the guy gave me a choice of a site right on the water or a larger one 30 m away. The one on the water was pretty nice but too close to others. Later I realized that there are about 20 trailers here but only ~ 3 have people here, the rest are empty until the w/e I guess. Looks like two super long days to Fredericton. Went for a swim when I got here. I haven't been able to do that as much as I expected (Oosoyos, Grand Forks, Lake of the Prairies, Whiteshell Park, Pancake Bay, Mackay and here - could have at Hope and North Bay)

OD 5888.2 km, 6:54:50, 124.4 km, 19.0 ave, 54.8 max.

Tuesday August 11 Riviere Ouelle (Municipal Campground with over 200 sites, pool, on the St. Laurence River)

Spent most of last night hanging out at the little pub downstairs until closing time which is about 11;30. Big hostel and only ~ 10 people both nights. Based on my 7 room mates I am the late owl but I doubt that with Quebec's night life, First up (I had to open the kitchen) and got out to the bike to discover another slow leak on the front - changed tube, rode around the old city and on the ferry at 8:00 am. Great off road bike route (former r/r) in Levis and yet again great La Route Vert and Hwy #132. Didn't get as far as I had hoped due to head winds. Like going into Quebec, La Route Verte got me again with a ~20 km gravel section. Caught up to a young girl from Markham doing the trip solo from mid May to mid September!!! We rode together for a while but when we got to the road for the last 12 km to the campground she fell way back as expected. She is well prepared (all the right maps, makes campground reservations etc) unlike me and travels light (2 rear bags and a foamy). I got to the campground and noticed another solo cyclists across from me, however another neighbour came over and asked me if I wanted some of their leftovers so I sat with them for a while, Chatted later with the two solo cyclists then had some beer with G. He is doing a short trip from Quebec to Labrador or Newfoundland via the Gaspe Peninsula but he has had bike problems and knee problems already and it's only been two days. It feels like summer is fading - when Kevin and I rode in the Fraser Valley you could hardly tell that the plants in the fields were corn b/c they were so small and now I sometimes can't see the horizon b/c the corn is so tall. And also once again I am writing this in the tent just after 9:00 pm b/c it gets dark at 8:30. Even ate my dinner and washed dishes in the dark tonight. Looking at the map I may be able to get to Edmunston NB tomorrow if everything goes well.

OD 5763.8 km, 7:24:40, 138.13 km, 18.6 ave, 46.1 max

Mon Aug 10 Quebec City

Pub was fun last night as I got to speak English with other foreigners staying here. Up this morning, ate, did some internet banking and blogging. Went to the North American - Francophone museum. It is in one of the first buildings on the site which started out as a seminary and after many additions, fires, English bombings and French rule, it has become part of Laval University (Architecture) and a high school. It was much better than the Museum of Civilization which was recommended to me to learn about Quebec history. Spent most of the rest of the day wandering around, eating and catching up on chores. Got to get back on the bike and make up for all the short days and the days of no riding at all.

Zero - walking and walking today.

Sun Aug 9 Ville de Quebec aka Quebec City or mostly just Quebec

First up at the hostel, no one at desk until 8:00 and I guess no one working office hours. Last night my roommate came in about 4:00 am and one closer to 5:oo. Now I know it's a hostel etc etc but the one who came in at 5:00 put on his headlamp and started munching on crackers!! I wanted to make as much noise as I could when I got up but then remembered that "You know you are an athlete when your day begins at 5:30 am, not ends" Well I didn't start at 5:30 but on the road before 8:00. Scenic ride along #138 which is the main route of Le Route Verte a bicycle route through Quebec and Chemin de Roy, no not the goalie but a driving interpretive route past all the old churches. Don't know if the guidebook is bilingual. Often I took the routes when it veered from the "highway" (2 lanes, wide shoulders, light traffic) as it went through the old part of town and sometimes only added a couple hundred metres to the ride. Saw many cyclist out today, couples, families, tri-heads, light tourist but no clubs - maybe they ride early in the morning. drafted off some, passed many, even dropped a few that couldn't hold the pace. Veered off the Hwy coming close to Quebec then completely lost the main Hwy. City not in sight, no signs, useless maps, construction detours, no directions other than the hostel street address and I knew it is in the old city. Somehow found the old city (again no Info Centre, no signs directing you to the old city) without a hitch and there were volunteers blocking car access to parts of the old city. I asked where the hostel was and the volunteer said it was one block ahead. It was easier to find than Thunder Bay's. BIG hostel, almost too big but will stay two nights and then have some big days so I don't get too far behind schedule. Wandered the streets tonight and went for Chinese food - do you believe it? Ordered in French: poulet, beauf etc. Rain started falling ~9:oo pm so back to the hostel where they have a pub down stairs.

OD 5625.7 km, 6:48:29, 138.21 km, 20.3 ave, 51.2 max

Sat Aug 8 Trois Riveries PQ

Woke up to blue skies, even put on some sunscreen. Took me until nearly 9:00 am to get rolling on the Hwy. Took me even longer to realize that it is the weekend. I know I can not make Quebec City in one day as it is ~ 225 km away. Will make it two easy days. When going through Brethierville there was a traffic jam on the Hwy to get into the Tim Horton's drive through. And these people are afraid of losing their culture!! I went to a take out place for coffee and frites (Ontario had lots of people selling burgers and fries from trucks here it's like the old Wally Burgers everywhere) Got to Trois Riveries an older working class town (Kruger Paper et al) and stopped at the very busy, very down town Info Centre. Didn't want to wait and then realized that there is a hostel here, it's only ~ 120 km to Quebec City and some dark clouds are rolling in so I left the InfoCentre and found my way through the narrow one way streets to the hostel. Smaller place, an old typical brick, 3 storey house that is done up well and kept very organized. Went for a walk downtown - it is jammed packed with Cafes, bistros, bars and patios but of course I'm looking for a grocery store tonight. The city also has a lot of old, fat, balding, white guys on Harley's. Motorcycles even have designated parking spaces on the street. Also an Italian festival going on (a language other than French!) the only thing I saw was a show and shine that started with little Italian cars that looked like old Mini's then Fiats, Alfa Romeo, and Lamborghini's.

OD 5487.5 km, 4:09:16, 95.48 km, 22.9 ave, 37.4 max

Friday Aug 7 Joliette, PQ

Showers overnight so not in any rush to get out of bed. Windy this morning so everything dry and packed so on my way at 9:00 am. Route finding going well, kind of making it up as I go along. Changes from farmland to small town (church and hardware store only) to small city and back again very quickly. Roads are all good pavement, wide shoulders and drivers treat you as an equal. They even expect me to be assertive when I have the r.o.w. No English to be seen on signs, menu's or anywhere but people outside eating at 9:30 in the morning. I'm going to have to find the subtle differences between cafes, bistros, restaurants etc by stopping at as many as I can. Had crepes francaises for an early lunch, It was basically a fresh fruit plate with a little pasterie and it was fantastic. Like yesterday I am hiding from local showers. Seems to be a big one in front of me that I keep catching up to. Three guys on road bikes passed me in the afternoon and I caught up to them a few minutes later when they stopped for a break. They have small day packs, lots of gels and are going to Trois Riveries today and Quebec City tomorrow. A big ride today but easy ride tomorrow. They are drafting off each other and are probably doing 35 to my 20 km/hr. Later I suspect they may have been caught in one of the showers. I stopped in Joliette. Confusing lay out of the streets as they follow the rivers and the railway. Took me quite some time to find the InfoCentre. They showed me where the groc stores and campgrounds are. Talked to a guy outside about Quebec, politics, must sees and he felt I had to be on some kind of quest and if not I would realize it later. Got to the camp ground and settled in at 5:30. That's a civilized time to stop. I can't stop eating, I don't know what I would do if I were using the Warm Shower List. This town is very French, the InfoCentre (young girls) were stumbling with English and every one seems to be French only (like the campground owners).

OD 5392.0 km, 5:59:55, 122.42 km, 20.4 ave, 39.6 max

Thursday Aug 6 Quebec, La belle province

(The view of the St Lawrence from my campsite)

Didn't make it to the light show as I got socializing at the hostel and then out drinking with Craig form Nottingham and Clement form Austria. Craig is cycling coast to coast via Prince Rupert the Rockey Mtn Parkway and some US states (Minnisota to Detroit). Clement is just 18 but very knowlegable and will go far in life. He didn't have his ID at the pub, all but outright said he was underage but they said he could drink anyway, that's the kind of guy he is. Got up early to find the Trois Rivieres-ians were getting ready to leave too. We left at about the same time but they headed to Gatineau and the north side fo the river and I headed east to try out the farmland routes. My way was really good, even when riding through some of the best (worst) examples of North American urban sprawl. Somehow, someone at city hall got bike lanes added between the through traffic and the right turning lanes. Worked great as I got to see all the big boxes, and outlet malls repeated between cookie cut houses. Got out on the farmland and that genetic defect of mine (had to race to catch up to a guy that was out for a training ride) had me chatting with a guy who finally has some time off as his consulting/ contracting work has slowed (sounds familiar). He was in Africa for 5 weeks ("sitting in safari trucks") and will be going to Algonquin for a few weeks next. He basically told me to change my route to the old #17, rode me out to it, gave me good instructions and it was well worth it. The road is usually 50 to 200 m from the water, big houses on the water and farmland on the south side of the road. I also realized that I may have been in Ontario but it was very French Catholic. I say my bonjours but people quickly realize that I can't speak French and they (so far) pleasantly speak English for me. Had to dodge 3 rain showers today. The first had the most intense rain with the least protection. The second one I found a picnic/ conservation area with a picnic shelter. The third one wasn't too bad - I was under cover at what might have been a volunteer fire hall. Made it to Hawksbury about 5:00 but couldn't find a grocery store anywhere. Finally found one no where near a main road. Went to the ATM too - must be welfare day or something as there was a line up (4 machines and population ~10,000) Could not find a campsite either so I went over the bridge to Quebec. Both the Ont and Quebec InfoCentres were closed (after 6:00 pm) so I asked an older guy where the closest campground was. Rode along north side of Ottawa River, again $1 million houses on the river side and thinking no one would have a campground here, I came across La Route Vert and a 400+ site campground. It's not even bilingual (except for the guy taking my money) but it is nice, clean, on the water and quiet. What is probably a 120 km day turned into 150+ with scenic route rather than #17 and riding all over Hawksbury looking for supplies and a campground that does not exist. In bed early as it's dark at 8:45 pm.

OD 5269.5 km, 7:06:33, 152.57 km, 21.4 ave, 41.1 max

Wednesday August 5 Ottawa ON

Thunderstorms did come in ~ dinner time yesterday. When the rain slowed I went to a little Mexican restaurant in the ByWard Market area. Later went to parliament bldg for light show but it was cancelled due to weather. Dorm filled up, luckily my bed is right beside the little AC unit and not one of the higher priced former jail cells with no windows or AC. Got up early and went to the War Museum by walking along the Canal and Ottawa River paths. Sorry Vancouver but Ottawa may have us beat for bike facilities; rental bikes from kiosks for ByWard Market, every type of rider commuting by bike and lots along the path I took. Spent nearly the entire day at the museum and finally left about 4:00. They just present the all the facts they can, with a Canadian perspective (ie no Nagasaki or Hiroshima) but you can't help but be moved at times. Went to Parliament Hill for a tour and did the same tour that I did before with OPSS. Of course being summer and after hours (6:00 pm) I didn't get to meet the PM, my MP or anyone else but I did get most of the trivia questions right. The big changes since I was last there? No, not Nunavut, but airport-type security to get in and a gift shop to get out. Will try to get to the light show tonight - I missed the jail tour once again.

No bike miles, huge walking kms and standing hrs.

Tuesday August 4 Ottawa ON

Got up early and tried to dry tent as I don't know what the Ottawa hostel will have for outside drying space. One of the strange characters has sat down at my picnic table to tell me his tales of woe while I pack up. Finally had to cut him off as I was leaving. Hwy 17 has some more of the most dangerous designs that I have ever seen. It becomes Hwy 417 and at some point cyclists are not allowed but this is only communicated at the on ramps which I can not see. I got off at Hwy 20 and it passed the Diefenbunker which I should have toured - maybe next time. The route went through Kanata and all the high tech offices with empty parking lots. It was just past noon so I saw a few out for walks and runs with their ID and swipee cards. Luckily I checked the maps for MEC as it is on the west side of town. Dropped in to pickup supplies. People kept coming up to me when I was locking up my bike to talk and shake my hand. Good to be in a larger city with the smells of foreign food, especially Indian, sounds of different languages and I got to ride like a bicycle courier. Found the hostel with little difficulty (map at MEC, some construction) and met two young Trois Rivieres-ians finishing up a 10 week loop through Boston, Chicago, Toronto. They went to all the major cities they could with their mountain bikes, trailer and only doing ~80 km/day. Weather pretty good today but a strong S wind that might be bringing thunder storms.

OD 5116.9 km, 4:33:10, 102.34 km, 22.4 ave, 46.6 max

Monday August 3 north of Renfrew ON

(18%, more like 6%, the MoT can't do math either)

Writing this once again in the dark so I don't know if I;ll be able to read it later. Spent last night sitting around the fire with a couple from Sudbury who are tenting it but have been going to this site for the last 4 years. Last night was clear but as I packed up it started getting cloudy. Knowing that I had two relatively easy days (360 km total) to Ottawa I made lots of stops, side trips and excursions into most of the towns along the way. Actually was in Quebec for a few moments, went to Petawawa and Pembroke also Renfrew. Found some of the worst pavement today (neglected and unmaintained) also some of the worst engineered shoulders with rumble strips taking up the entire 18" shoulder. This is so negligent it should be criminal. The Ontario MoT will be hearing from me. Light rain started falling in the afternoon. I thought it wouldn't last but it might. Turned off the highway due to above mentioned pavement and holiday Monday traffic and went on side Hwys to Renfrew where the map showed there is a campground. Rode from east end of town all the way to west end where just off Hwy 17 I found the InfoCentre. The girl sent me north to 17 then WEST for a couple km then 5 km north to a campground. The east bound holiday traffic was bumper to bumper and it's still ~100 km to Ottawa!! This campground was one of the most expensive I've stayed at (except Ont Prov Parks) and while it has lots of things to do it's pretty junky and seems to have some strange characters. Due to the rain I'm hiding out in the tent so I won't see any of them.

OD 5014.6 km, 7:40:21, 159.37 km, 20.7 ave, 43.5 max

Sunday Aug 2 Mackey ON

It rained nearly all night and especially hard ~5 to 6 am. Didn't know what I would do as I didn't want to ride in that. Got up ~7:30 and it was sunny. J&L fed me breakfast and gave me some food to go as well. We crammed the bike in the car and the 3 of us went to the InfoCentre as that was convenient and I guess if anyone is keeping track the exact same picnic table from where I was picked up. After unloading the bike it started raining so we sat inside the car waiting for the shower to pass. Not long after it did so I loaded up the bike we took some photos and said our good byes. It seemed to take me about another hour to get rolling as I kept stopping to adjust gear, pump up tires, add and remove clothes and duck under a tree to let another shower pass. As the day went on it got clearer and the SWesterlies picked up. Passed by one campground as the map showed a Prov Park ahead. The PP was full so I went a little further to the next town which has a campground on the Ottawa River (actually a tributary called Mackey Creek). Not much for me as it is like an RV/ trailer park filled with families that are here most of the summer. It reminds me of Bobcaygeon as a teenager except there is no town so I don't know what the kids do. Because everyone knows each other here, I have become somewhat of a celebrity as everyone has to come by and say "So you're the guy cycling from...."

OD 4855.2 km, 6:03:41, 138.27, 22.7 km, 62.6 max

Sat August 1 North Bay ON

Just a relaxing day - a holiday - for all of us. Didn't do too much and didn't even touch the bike. Drove into town but most of the waterfront was closed off for the Summer in the Park festival. Sounded like the Tragically Hip was rehearsing on stage when we were there. Went through the North Bay museum which is inside the original train station then went to Main Street to pick up a few supplies from the outdoor store and the drug store. I won't be able to reach Ottawa in 2 days (375 km) but maybe 2.5 days with a 1.5 day stay. At dinner everyone surprised me with a birthday cake, I often forget that's it's my birthday.

OD no changes.

Friday July 31 North Bay

I'm getting this dew thing figured out. Grass, table etc are soaked but clothes on the line and tent aren't. Only need to do 77 km by midday so I'm not rushing. Not much along the way except it looks more like Southern Ontario (farming on river/ Lake Nippising) and the weather is more summer like. North Bay is much bigger than I thought it was but I've never been here before as I always stopped at Uncle J and Aunt L's place just south in Collander. The premier must be from here because they are building a new hospital about the size of VGH at the north end of town. Arrived at the InfoCentre as scheduled about 1:00 pm and called Uncle J who is on his way to pick me up. The InforCentre is busy - North Bay is where a number of highways meet up and it's the start of the long weekend and the North Bay festival Summer in the Park. Got to J and L's place to find that B and D had arrived. Spent the day reminiscing drinking beer like Robertson's, watching some CFL and had dinner at the Legion. We all bought tickets for meat draws, cheese draws and who knows what else but we didn't win a thing.

OD 4717.0, 3:22:38, 81.90 km, 24.2 ave, 49.2 max

Thurs July 30 Hagar ON

(My typical dinner: green pepper, tomato, noodles, in this case smoked fish, oil and spices)

Called Mark last night and noticed live music being played at the cottages. Finished up with Mark and went over to see. They had a gazebo for live music a few seats inside (protected form weather and bugs) and a bunch of us sitting outside on picnic tables under a sign that said "where friends gather" or something like that. The band and most of the people I talked to were regulars up for an extended time that played bluegrass music. They were from Kentucky and tried to explain how bluegrass differs form country music to me. (I couldn't tell you). Got on the road this morning after finding the dew had soaked everything, so I started off with wet clothes, socks and shoes. Dark skies often but never really felt like it was going to rain except when I came out of the groc store east of Sudbury. Bit of a surprise this morning when I got on the highway and the sign said North Bay 250 km. Oops that's not two easy days, or a day and a half like I told everyone so I will have to pick up the pace, extend today's ride and maybe start early on Friday. Sudbury seems like a large city (165,000 pop) larger than what I thought it was. I had no desire to see it or a city that large so I managed to bypass it without much difficulty. I think I was riding on parts that bikes were not allowed but it had the best paved shoulders that I had seen since Dryden-Kenora. Got out of Sudbury and thought I should start looking for a place to camp. Map had me worried because it showed nothing until Sturgeon Falls which would have made today over 200 km. Luckily I saw some signs at ~5:oo pm indicating one motel/ campground on the highway and one probably nice place ~5 km off the highway. (5 km doesn't sound like much but it is when your are doing a trip like this) Paid for the motel campsite without even seeing it (all I asked about were showers- yes, picnic table - yes, and water - yes) The four tables were practically on the side of the highway in a huge grass yard (100 m by 200m ) without a single tree. I pitched my tent way at the back under some willows and noticed by the marks in the grass another solo cyclist did the same thing probably last night. The showers and the bathroom are the best I've ever seen in a campground (maid service supplies fresh towels and those hotel soaps and shampoos). Unfortunately I'm alone here tonight and the few stores in the town are closed for the night.

OD 4635.0 km, 7:22:15, 169.25 km, 22.9 ave, 49.0 max

Wed July 29 Spanish ON

Today would have been a perfect day to do 200 km but I was sightseeing so I got nowhere close to that. Woke up to the sound of rain on the tent but it was obvious that it was only a very light shower lasting a couple of minutes. Enough to wet the tent fly but everything else like the picnic table was dry because it was covered by the cedars I camped under. Took my time getting going so much so that I think I was the last of 5 to leave. Had a good wind at my back and the clouds with dark bottoms kept the occasional sun from overheating me. Talked to a couple of young Quebec guys with guitars etc that sold their cars, quit their jobs and were moving to the Rockies or Vancouver for the winter. Ahhh youth. Found the smoked fish place that Beth raved about. It is about 3 days away form where she said it was :) The guy was in the middle of a batch with some white fish ready to come out. Listened to his opinion on everything that's wrong with the world then took two whole fish still warm and strapped them to the bike. I stopped at a picnic area/ hiking area at Serpent River a short time later where the river has a few rapids, drop offs and steep corners. I was thinking a bear smelling the smoked fish could have had me cornered pretty easily. Ate one fish for dinner, it was mmmarvelous. Will try to hang the second one away from the raccoons and have it tomorrow. Stopped at Spanish a little after 4:00 pm because I didn't want to make it a rushed evening. The campground is about 1 km from town/ Hwy. It was kind of a sketchy area, the place is a cheap marina, repair yard with RVs, cottages slipping off their foundations and a large patch of grass for tenters. Washrooms, showers are clean and they only charged me $7.00 !! Looks like I will get to North Bay midday Friday without any trouble. Blake and Don will be there too.

OD 4465.7 km, 5:25:13, 127.14 km, 23.4 ave, 50.9 max

Tues July 28 Bruce Mines ON

A couple drops of rain fell last night but woke up to everything dry. Got going with threatening skies but as I finished my trip around the north side of Lake Superior and got to Sault Ste Marie summer arrived. Sunshine, low humidity and only a few dozen mosquitoes in the evening. Stopped at Chippewa River for a few photos - must be more spectacular at high water. There is a plaque there commemorating the completion of the Trans Canada Hwy in 1962. The plaque is\was at the mid point between Victoria and St John's. Now I.m feeling anxious, wondering if I'm behind schedule. The highway is flattening out somewhat but there still seems to be a few unnecessary climbs. The last 10 km into The Sault are a nice downhill ( I've now been to The Hat, The Peg and The Sault, one more to go: The Rock). I avoided the downtown portion and took the highway bypass only stopping at Tim Horton's and then for some groceries. Got my first real flat - likely a pinch flat flying into town. I thought it was low after eating and it was flat by the time I finished groceries. Fixed it at the front of the store and nobody batted an eye. As I turned east I had a pretty good tail wind that I was going to use to get to Thessalon but instead noticed a sign pointing out the municipal campground here at Bruce Mines. Sometimes they can be a pretty good deal. Sometimes not. This one looks pretty good, it's cheap - $10.00 including shower and firewood. The town was a copper mine in 1860 - 1870 and there are lots of old houses and churches (from ~1900 I'm guessing). Active community and busy downtown despite a population of 600.

OD 4338.6 km, 6:33:34, 147.32 km, 22.4 ave 60.7 max

Monday July 27 Pancake Bay Prov Park

Fog still lingering when I got up this morning. Cooked breakfast inside the motel and got going to get to the InfoCentre at 8:00 to use their computer for a little while. About 15 km ride to Lake Sup Prov Park and at the same time fog cleared. Started ride thinking I should be wearing 3 layers and soon one was enough. Fog returned on and off throughout the day as did the wind. The park also seemed to have 3 times as many uphills as downhills. All day I felt like I was dragging something. Stopped a number of times to check things out in the park likes beaches, coves and inland lakes. Stopped for a late lunch at the main camping area. Campground did not seem very full at all probably because they charge about $32.00 and up for a site. Rode to Pancake Bay Prov Park. The beach is great, the water is relatively warm because it is only ~2 feet deep for the first 25 meters from shore. Nice to go for a swim and do some camping at last. This campground has ~200 sites, nearly full tonight, lots of families, a few here for the summer (lottery system to get one of those sites) and except for being beside the Hwy it is fairly quiet and the people are friendly. Today while telling my story to a bunch of people from Milwalkee, I realized that I have crossed the halfway mark (4.5 weeks) on my trip and that thought has really bummed me out. Halfway over:(

OD 4191.3 km, 8:13:18, 153.82 km, 18.6 ave, 55,2 max

Sunday July 26 Wawa ON

Got up to rain falling outside the motel so I was in no rush to get going. Made oatmeal and coffee on my stove as there is no coffee maker or microwave in the motel. I guess they want you to walk across the parking lot to the restaurant. Got going and for the first few hours there was on and off rain but weather got better, rain stopped, roads dried, no wind nor humidity makes it feel much warmer than it is so I was in short sleeves most of the time. Stopped at White Pine where Winnie the Pooh began. Noticed a sign for Jen's Cafe but it was closed (Sunday) so I went to a truckers chain. I have given up my daily quest for good coffee and home baked goodies. Weather was getting so much better that I was tempted to get some supplies in Wawa, continue south and camp in Lake Superior Prov Park but ~1 hr out of Wawa the rain came down so hard that I took shelter in the trees. And after most of my clothes, my shoes and my socks hanging off the back of my bike had nearly dried! Watched a bear from the highway for a short while earlier. It wasn't happy when it realized that I saw it first. I still haven't seen a moose. After the rain shower I could see and feel a cold moist air mass coming at Wawa. I grabbed a motel and some supplies. The air mass was the lake-effect fog that's common here. It brought a little rain but not much more.

OD 4037.4 km, 6:30:06, 135.10 km, 20.7 ave, 46.6 max

Sat. July 25 Gloria's Motel and Restaurant (outside of White Lake Prov. Park)

Got up and watched some Tour de France and some Weather Network. Weather was supposed to be light rain all day with accumulations of about 5 mm (ie 1-3 mm during day and 1-3 mm evening) Not so. Started out with some fog, mist and occasional light shower. Got to a picnic area- view point where p b & j bagels and talked with a number of people: locals, tourists and those leaving Toronto for somewhere else. Got some great advice, especially from one local who left when a group of 12 on Harley's pulled up. Since Marathon was the only town on today's ride I thought I would take the ride 7 km off the highway to see the place. Before I got there the rain poured down. When I got to the turnoff I was soaked especially from riding down the hills and the area was one giant active muddy construction site. It was only about noon so I kept going and did not see Marathon. Unlike yesterday there was little wind and it was warmer so I was wet but not cold. The rain kept coming harder and harder until I had to get off the road and take shelter under some trees. Questioning why I was doing this trip the rain just kept falling harder. When it at last slowed somewhat I got back on the highway and noticed patches of blue sky in front of me. Soon I could see my shadow! the Tech gold mines and the sun was out drying me and my gear. I stopped at Gloria's Motel and Restaurant while it was sunny. I was thinking maybe I should be camping. Checked in after swapping parenting stories (like city vs here) with the owner - yes, Gloria. Then had dinner in the trucker's restaurant - I couldn't finish my dinner it was so big. Later walked across the highway to the lake and noticed some dark clouds approaching. In the time it took me to write today's entry the clouds came in, the hydro went out, the thunder came, about 10 mm of rain fell, it stopped and the hydro came back on. I am getting tired of riding in the rain for 4 hrs per day and staying at motels!! When will it end.

OD 3902.3 km, 6:19:56, 117.74, 18.5 ave, 54.1 max (could probably add 10 km and 30 minutes due to rain shorting out speedometer)