Tuesday July 21 Upsala ON

Determined to make Thunder Bay in two days I figured today was going to be a big day - motel to motel, easy meals and just go all day. The weather channel shows a narrow band of clouds and showers with Ont summer in front and prairie summer behind, so I'll ride like mad in the cool weather. Stopped for a big lunch (!) and groceries in Ignace. They say when travelling to avoid stomach problems don't eat from raod side vendors but this guy's food was good and his trailer/ kitchen was cleaner than any restaurant kitchen I've ever seen. His picnic tables with tents and flower baskets made it a great place to eat. He wasn't very busy due to the weather so he joined me and we chatted for a while. On and off rain started about 3:00 and became mostly full on rain until I got this motel at 7:00. I was getting worried if there really was a motel in this town as it was quite spread out along the highway and there was a burned out shell of one motel , and a closed motel/ bait store. Finally found the place and the guy said no cooking, no microwave due to Fire Marshall's order. He also said that the nearest restaurant was 2-3 miles in either direction. But he had no problem with me using my camp stove on the front stoop. Long day no matter how you look at it. Got on bike at 7:00 am got off at 7:00 pm and the motel owner quickly reminded me that we were on Eastern time therefore 8:00 pm. Almost 10 hours in the saddle, 4 of them in the rain.

OD 3424.7, 9:46:03, 195.75 km, 20.0 km/hr ave, 38.4 max

Monday July 20 Wabigoon ON

Woke up at 5:30 to the sound of rain on the tent, so rolled over and went back to sleep. Got up at 7:00 when the rain had stopped and it started again a few minutes into the ride. Stopped at the picnic area ~6 km into the trip - it looked like a great place to camp - so much so it was well signed as no camping and even had gates they probably lock every night - I should have camped there after they locked up. Met up with the SF couple, they stayed 30 km back at Dryden. Rain was very light and continued most of the morning, it hardly made the pavement wet. Took a motel as rain is expected but not hot enough for thunder showers but they say there is a chance. I sure have a knack for picking out the cheap motels. Everything in this place looks like it was scavenged, is broken, crooked, or old except the Sat TV which I couldn't figure out how to work until I found out the batteries in the remote were nearly dead. The mattress is firm and the toilet paper is soft - that's all that really matters. I didn't do a lot of miles today so now I don't' know if I will make Thunder Bay in two days.

OD 3228.9 6:02:50, 114.17, 18.8 km/hr ave, 44.6 max

Sunday July 19 A lake in Ontario

Rode back towards Bereston Lake first thing to fill up water bottles. The place is still after yesterday's madness. Rode to West Hawk Lake was also very quiet. Yesterday afternoon as much as 5 minutes would go by between seeing cars and this morning even fewer cars. Stopped a number of times to check out the picnic areas and trail heads. Sat at the gas stn at West Hawk drinking a coffee and people watching. This end of the park is like where I camped - cottages, boats, side by side trailers, and busy people going nowhere while I watch them with a silly grin on my face. It's not the first place I've done that. Got on to the real Hwy 1 and it's noisy. Stopped at the Manitoba Welcome Centre - I was leaving so no need to be there except I was looking for a "Welcome to" sign. Noticed one after I saw Ontario's which was at the start of a construction zone - perfect for Ontario. Then stopped at the Ontario Welcome Centre and guess who showed up - the SF couple. We chatted for a while, exchanged addresses at last and took some photo's at the real welcome to Ontario sign. The HWY here is typical Ont. more like a freeway, lots of tacky tourist stuff and cottages, marinas etc but very few campgrounds. I have ducked off the highway, near a section that was probably just abandoned in the last year. I rode along the old section of Hwy and pitched my tent beside the lake. The water is kinda swampy so I'm not trusting it for swimming. Bugs are out but not too bad. Temperatures are up but still quite comfortable. I have decided to take the short route to Thunder Bay. I will probably wear the MP3 player for the next 3 days to block out the traffic drone. Spent lots of time on the road today but with stops etc only 7 hrs in the saddle.

OD 3114.7 km, 7:02:48, 137.66 km, 19.5 ave 48.6 max

Saturday July 18 Whiteshell Provincial Park

Got up early to get on my way early. Only people up in the hostel kitchen were some guys that were on their way to work. Packed up as quietly as I could but still managed to disturb my roommate I'm sure. I only talked to him the one time when he arrived. Got going ~7:30 and had some difficulties trying to find the best route out of the city. Finally found Raleigh St and it worked very well. The highway starts out as #59, double lanes, divided highway with wide shoulders and as the day went on it became narrow, gravel shoulders and almost no traffic, Saw very few joggers out for a Sat morning run (unlike Regina or Anycity for that matter) but did see one roadie and one triathlete on the highway. I was tempted to keep up for a while with each but resisted. Stopped at one ice cream/ gas stn and talked to the young guy working there, He has a dream to cycle from Vancouver to Mexico so he was quizzing me as much as he could without getting into trouble from the boss. Not much else in the way of towns. Made it out to Whiteshell Prov Park. The gates made it a 140 km day so I went to the nearest campground. It was full. The uniformed ranger was polite but she wouldn't do anything for me. I don't know how they can call this a park when there are cottages all over the place, for sales signs, resorts, B&B's dozens of them. There is some kind of festival going on too. So I went for a swim and now guerrilla camping near the Trans Canada Trail (ha). I obviously didn't get far enough away from the Bereston Lake area as I can hear the madness up here about 2 km away. I'm on the Cdn Shield now. As I got closer to the park I could see the granite outcrops, the birch trees, the muskeg and the swarm of flies that surrounded me while I was cycling. I have the bug hat on now. The route I took today was the original TC Hwy 1. At times I rode the "service road" which probably predates the TCHwy, it was very narrow, has for the most part been abandoned. The part I rode has been replaced with a more direct route about 50 km to the south. I will join up with it tomorrow.

OD 2975.1 km, 8:07:04, 154.60 km, 19.0 km/hr ave, 32.3 max

Friday July 17 Winnipeg

As far as hostels go, I was up early. A few of us old folks up at that time having coffee, tea and breakfast. I spoke with a woman who was a WREN and went to all the reunions that Mom went to. She lives in Churchill! Cleaned my bike up and took it for a tune up at a nearby shop which was recommended. The shop was owned and operated by what I could call Fixie Chicks. Most of their bike parts were for Winnipeg one-speeds - heavy, strong and can be used in the winter and on their terrible pavement. Wandered about and found a place on the south side - they basically said it it ain't broke don't fix it. Money saved. Toured around on some scenic bike paths and found one on the banks of the Assiniboine River which obviously just had the spring flood recede leaving the path muddy. My bike looks like I've been up on Eagle Ridge mtn biking. Also road in traffic. I got the bike map, road signage etc seems like any other city but here cyclists and motorists have a real disrespect for each other. Somehow it works though (?) Later my pannier buckle got stuck in my back wheel and it locked up. Luckily I was on a side street with the world's worst pavement so no injuries or embarrassment. Went to the Manitoba Museum, Planetarium and Science Gallery for free. More money saved. I think I'm ready to get back on my bike and head east. Spent the evening socializing in the kitchen, common areas and then had a few pints in the Pub with this young guy who was leaving Toronto for a job in Nanaimo.

~ 15 km of riding in the city.

Thursday July 16 Winnipeg

It didn't rain last night but the wind barely slowed. Wind was in my favour most of the day but at times it was at my side blowing me all over the road. Knowing it would be an easy 140 km, I didn't get going until almost 9:30. This trip is no where near over but I think I've found the worst roads - highways at least. Even Hwy 1 is mostly gravel shoulders including within 20 km of the city centre. Hwy 1 becomes Portage Ave, 4 lanes at times, right lane signed as a bike route but pavement is terrible and drivers act like their from Surrey. I got off Portage(me, the guy who likes to play in traffic!) and found a parallel route (Worseley Av) and I guess the cyclists are as aggressive as the drivers there were numerous road signs that say "Cyclist Reminder: Vehicle Traffic has the right to use the street". Found the hostel without too much trouble despite this town not having a welcome/ Info Centre and me not having a map. The hostel is huge, and old 3 storey hotel with a court yard, a pub, a restaurant under reno's and lots of common areas. My room has 6 beds but only 4 with mattresses and I think I'm going to have it to myself (images of Fernie BC and late night roommates in my head). Later: Got a roommate. A fellow from Quebec that flew out to Vancouver and hitch hiking back. Wandered about downtown but I think there is an indoor/ underground part of "The Peg" that I'm not aware of. Outside it's just homeless, panhandlers and the addicted. I will have to find my way into the world of Skywalks and undergrounds.

OD 2806.3 km, 5:52:15, 144.78 km, 24.6 km.hr ave, 40.0 max

Wed July 15 Gladstone MB

(Photo is me trying to snap a picture of my speedometer while coasting down the highway)

Rain fell hard for a short while and lightly for 5 or 6 hours - mostly large drops from the trees. Slept late hoping the wind or sun would dry everything but no luck. Finally got on the road at `9:30. I guess after a couple days of rain, the winds switch to westerlies. Unfortunately I have ~ 90 km of south to ride before turning east. It took until 3:00 pm to ride south at ~ 15 km/hr. The winds were buffeting me towards the traffic, the shoulders are gravel and the white fog line was literally on the vertical edge of the pavement and on the gravel itself. Had to dive for the gravel a few times. It seems that Manitoba is not big on paved shoulders even here on Hwy 16/ Yellowhead where it is only ~3 ft wide where again I've had to hit the dirt a few times (Don't worry I haven't fallen off the bike). After getting out of Riding Mtn this morning, in a tiny community of Onanole, I saw an old building that had a sign that said " Art-Books-Cappuccino". I slammed on the brakes and went in. Got some really good coffee at the busy place (complete with Park employees - and feds know where good coffee is), some baked goodies and a (used) book. Browsed around some more and got a lb of coffee ground up (Salt Spring Espresso) as I had finished the lb that Lynn supplied me with at the beginning of my trip. After turning east onto Hwy 16 I coasted 26 km to Neepawa. Not kidding - it had a good shoulder, first since Sask, slightly downhill and a huge westerly. I pedalled occasionally when my speed fell below 30 km/hr but just sat up right, squaring my shoulders to the wind, two fingers on one side of the handle bar and the other arm was used like a jib or rudder or whatever sailors would call it. Due to the wind I should make Winnipeg tomorrow easily. Due to the clouds coming in, nasty winds and two nights in the rain I've taken a motel tonight.

OD 2661.5 km, 7:05:26, 158.23 km, 22.3 km/hr ave, 55.8 max

Tuesday July 14 Riding Mountain National Park

Last week a local said to me "After a few days of east winds come rain." Woke up to rain this morning at about 2:00 am. It kept coming, at times very hard. At 6:30 am I told myself I would get up at 7:30 if it was still raining. A few minutes later it stopped so I got out of the tent at 7:00, made breakfast as usual and got going about 9:00 - after changing my watch to Manitoba time. Rode through Roblin, it looks like a great little town but it was too early to stop even though the bread at the bakery smelled great. Soon after the rain started again and kept drizzling till about 1:00 when I stopped at a gas stn for chips and a coffee. Attendant said that Douphin was a large city "malls and everything" so I thought I would get a motel for the night and dry out all my gear. When I got there it was only about 3:30, I couldn't find the Info Centre (for weather forecast and lots of other questions I had and I just got a funny feeling about the place. Decided to ride right through and into Riding Mtn Natl Park. Young girl at the booth was helpful let me in for free (I later thought maybe I should have some kind of annual pass because I will like be in a number of Natl Parks this summer) She said the camp ground was about 20 kms and warned me about the "big hills" It was about a 12 km climb and at the top was a ~6 storey look out tower that I had to run up and down. Visibility was poor so I didn't see too much.. Got to Moon Lake campground. It looks like it hasn't been funded too well. I'm now down at the lake and the sun is making appearances. There was a canoe on the like earlier but it's just me and a loon that probably doesn't know I'm here. Rough estimate says I'm two long days away from Winnipeg. I'll see how the weather helps or hinders me. I'm now in my tent hiding from the rain. I went for a short walk to the day use area and found a group in a kitchen shelter. I had heard some thunder a few minutes earlier and while talking to the now off duty girl from the booth it started pouring. I should have ran to the shelter but I thought I could make it to my tent. Well I'm a bit wet and I guess I'm in for the night now.

OD 2503.3 km, 7:53:56, 144.61 km, 18.2 km/hr ave, 40.2 max.

Monday July 13 Lake of the Prairies

Up and on my way late due to yesterday's long ride. Left ~8:30 and winds are light from the east/ southeast. The first couple hours to Yorkton I have the wind slightly behind my right shoulder. Yorkton is quite large - or at least larger than I thought it would be. Took the south bypass/ perimeter road to get to the Info Centre. As I rode east I was not looking forward to this afternoon's eastward ride. Info Centre helpful. Got some great coffee and a cinnamon bun from a place recommended by some city workers. ( I saw 2 girls and a guy planting some flowers on Broadway and I know that city workers know where the best brew is) Also got a new mirror for my bike and some grocs. Mirror was used quite a bit as there were some narrow or chewed up shoulders especially near the Sask-Man border. Camping tonight in Manitoba however I didn't see a sign saying "Welcome to" "Thanks for" or "Central Time". I'm at Lake of the Prairies. Its a long lake straddling the border, created by a dam at the south end. Immediately, dropping into the valley, there are trees, a lake to swim in (not too cold at all) boating and fishing right in front of my campsite and all around. Am I on the Shield? Weather keeps holding - never too hot, sun and clouds and sometimes dark clouds but no rain.

OD 2357.6, 6:35:30, 111.36 km, 16.8 km/hr ave, 39.6 max.

Sunday July 12 Melville

Another character building day. Got up and A and D fed me well again. Didn't get going on the road until almost 8:30. Angus took me out to the NE corner of town and we said our good bye's. I thanked him again for all he and D did for me including the deluxe tour of the city. Got going and while the wind was not directly in my face it sure slowed me down for the entire day. Finally got onto Hwy 10 and the wind was more at my side but still slowed me down. First part of #10 had terrible shoulders then my rear view mirror broke off so I had to stay way over to the right. My CT Syndrome has not gotten better, even bought some aspirin but it doesn't seem to help much. Stopped at Fort Qu'Appelle - there is no fort but interesting nonetheless. It has `2500 population and growing with retirees but with 4 lakes in the valley it has over 20,000 people in the summer. Found a great cafe in the ~1897 HBC building. Great date squares but coffee wasn't hot enough. Thought I'd push on to the nest town, Balcerres where the sigh said it had a campground. I looked all around for it figuring that at a 100 km day with a late start and riding upright with one arm most of the time it would be a good place to stop. Couldn't find it after circling the town so I went to the gas stn to ask - there it was - adequate for 5th wheelers but for me: no picnic table, no shower, no washroom after the gas stn closed and not sure where the water was and the guy wanted $10.00. I left knowing that I now had jto go another 55 km to Melville. It took me until 7:30 to get to town and 8:00 until I found a campsite. The camp ground is the town's baseball/ football area and the showers are the team dressing rooms. Knowing how Angus feels about the town, I stiffed them for the registration fee. It's now after 10:00 and I'm in my tent because it's dark and the mosquitoes are out.

OD 2246.3, 9:27:17 161.93km, 17.1 km/hr ave, 50.9 max

Sat July 11 Regina

Brian's uncle Angus biked to the Regina hostel to meet me and we rode downtown including the Sask Hotel, pedestrian mall, farmer's market etc etc. Then to Angus' and DeVona's home for breakfast. Angus toured me around the Wescana lake area and all the sites around it. Later the three of us rode out to the south east and had lunch at Earl's. After lunch Angus drove me out to the RCMP's new museum then back for dinner. Sat around enjoying the company until exhausted. Angus recommends a northerly route to Winnipeg which will probably only add one day (6 instead of 5). Sounds like the best option to me. Despite today being a rest day, I still put a lot of time and kms on the bike. I only hope that I will still be able to do it when I'm in my 70's.

OD 2084.3, 3:10:36, 38.32 km (touring Regina)

Friday July 10 Regina

Glad I stayed in a motel. As lonely and boring as they are the rain showers continued to ~ 8:00 pm and it got cold. The winds died overnight but picked up to those favourable westerlies. All day I had 2 layers on even with the wind at my back and the occasional bit of sun. No rain, it seems to be all gone. I worried about a sore butt (but not as much as others) but what I noticed occasionally over the last week has become carpel tunnel in the right triceps/ shoulder/ shoulder blade. Oh no!! I stopped in Moose Jaw - it seems like a thriving city. It has a few real cafes unfortunately the one I went to which had everything I expect in an independent had terribly boring coffee. Maybe it's the water, I can hardly drink the stuff, even here in Regina it's awful. Funny thing happened to me just as I arrived near the city limits. I stopped to dig out city maps etc while listening to my MP3 player. I didn't notice but a guy about my age had stopped his car on the other side of the TCH, ran across 4 lanes of traffic and the wide grass medium to say that he has always wanted to ride across the country, sees people loaded down with gear like me quite often and just had to meet one of us. We talked for a while on the side of the highway before saying good bye and good luck. Stumbled into the hostel while looking for the Tourist InfoCentre. Hostel seems quiet - not sure where people store food and no alcohol policy but really friendly people including one who greeted me while I was still outside. He is from Korea and riding across the country.

OD 2046.0 km, estimate 24km/hr

Thursday July 9 Chaplin Sask...

More people showed up last night - and there are more sites out of view. The fifth wheel people have all the hookups so they never come out but us tenters are a social bunch. I had dinner at the gas station/ restaurant/ motel at the highway (think Corner Gas) because i was feeling too lazy to cook. Friendly small-town people. I didn't find the main street of town until this morning when I was leaving. A few showers overnight and pretty cool temps. Luckily strong winds from the west with gusts up to 50 km/hr according to the radio. Sailed down the highway with little effort except I think my bike may have developed a speed wobble. I slowed down for Gull Lake but didn't go off the highway to see it. The provincial slogan here is something about the "Living Sky" I sure know what they mean. I was trying to read the sky like it was a white water river. The wind on the ground is not the same as the clouds until the first drop of a rain shower hits the ground then the wind switches. I was trying to out run some showers, out flank others, even stopping to let some cross my path. One I mis read completely so I dove under a bridge over a creek. Rain poured down hard for about 15 minutes. Some starlings (?) didn't like me there and I found out why - they had their nests under the road. Their nests are made of mud and shaped liked jugs.. They probably had babies inside them. Went into Swift Current for coffee and baked goods. Nice, functional downtown but I could not find a cafe. Feeling yet another rain shower coming I went into Tim Hortons (I'm sorry everyone) I was too late for a breakfast sandwich so I just had coffee. A couple sips into it, it started pouring outside so I figured I was staying for lunch. I ordered a sandwich and halfway through the sun was back out. Temporarily. Rode on to Chaplin where the map showed a campground. I went to the municipal campground - it had no showers, pit toilets and no protection from the wind. I was eyeing the adjacent dilapidated baseball dugouts. Rode away and over to the ice cream shack for some local info. Found out the downtown was hidden away and that it had "all services" even if some like the library are only open 6 hours per week (Seriously, M-W-F am). I went to the hotel which was a two storey building with a beer parlour on the main floor. Hand written signs on the door said when opened, not closed. The place looked like it would have fit right in the Vancouver Downtown Eastside but I didn't feel like staying in the campground with 50 km/hr winds and heavy rain showers every hour. I thought the bar owner could read my desperation when he said rooms were $82.50. I asked if the bar was noisy assuming the rooms were upstairs. He said no worries - the rooms were 4 blocks away. It's a series of 1 bedroom bungalows with the living room made into the main bedroom - full kitchen, bathroom, furnace room, storage room - Made for people staying for a month or so I guess.

OD 1885.0 km, 6:47:17, 175.97 km, ave 25.9 km/hr, 54.4 max

Wed July 8 Tompkins, Saskatchewan

Some rain last night on and off. Tent fly wet in the morning but everything else dry. The trees/ hills here seem to grab the rain (55 mm on Monday when I had 15 at the motel) but not the wind. In the morning clouds over Cypress Hills but everywhere else seems blue. The 35 km that took me 2 1/2 hours yesterday from the TCH only took 1 hour with that south wind (and a bit of down hill). My average speed was over 29 km/hr. As I turned east the winds turned with me. Not much in the way of geography - physical or manmade on today's ride. Stopped at an ice cream/ pie/ coffee place and then into the Saskatchewan Info Centre. They had a decent map - much better than the BCAA one that I have but their internet access was super slow. They said it was by satellite but I think it was dial up. Just checked the Subject lines on my home email as it took ~ 5 minutes to open one and reply. I've now stopped at a ramshackle campground in the Village of Tompkins. It has about 12 sites but only 4 picnic tables. That should be sufficient as I was the only one here when I arrived - now there is an older couple with a fifth wheel.

OD 1709.0, 6:19:57, 153.12km, 24.1 km/hr ave, 65.5 max

Tuesday July 7 Cypress Hills Provincial Park, Alberta

Got up early, looked out the motel window and saw clear skies and wind from the SE, yuk. Luckily light winds so got going early. Winds swirled to southerlies, SW and then WESTERLIES. Pretty soon I was flying just like people said I would. I was doing 39 km/hr on the uphill rollers and 50+ on the downhills listening to the sound of the wind in my spokes and some acoustic guitar on the MP3. I was even flying around Medicine Hat like a bike courier startling the motorists. I did some extra miles in The Hat - first I saw signs say "Historic Clay District" but it was a waste of time - it was in an industrial area, where they made bricks I'm guessing and the roads weren't gravel but broken brick. I'm determined to make this trip flat free so I stayed away. Went back downtown and found a good coffee shop with a roaster inside. The gas street lights in town are indeed gas lights - 5 Coleman mantles in each. Funny, the new headline, Micheal Jackson funeral aside, in Medicine Hat was that council sold a vacant lot next to City Hall to a condo developer for $1.00. Can't imaging that in Vancouver but I guess you gotta make the first one free then hopefully it will catch on. More miles when I took the wrong way to Hwy 1. I went all the way to the NW corner of town only to turn around and go the the SE corner of town on Hwy 1. Yes, that's right, I'm finally on the Trans Canada Hwy 1 - not including the 2 km in Hope where Kevin and I did Hwy 1 West. So after getting pushed east, I turned south to spend the night at Cypress Hills Provincial Park. 35 km south at ~ 14 km/hr along a narrow roadway. The park is something else: trees, likes, beaches, hiking trails, DH ski area, X-country skiing, tons of camping etc. I was considering staying two nights but I don't think there is that much to do unless you are a family with young children or you really wanted to hike without going to the Rockies. Cools off quickly here (at `1200 m elevation) but I think the thunderstorms are all gone - lots of blue skies today.

OD 1532.3 km, 7:16:20, 148.01 km, 20.3 km/hr ave, max 52.1

Monday July 6 Bow Island, Alberta

Slept until 7:00 am. Feeling like I did an Ironman yesterday. Got out and on the road to find winds still from the east but turning from the south. Riding still frustrating. Will make today a short one as I haven't had a day off yet and it's obvious that thunderstorms are due soon. Got a room at a motel in Bow Island (no water around here so I don't know where the name comes from) at about 12:30 pm. Catching up on a few things like grocs and laundry. The guy who met me at the motel (hotel actually) seems to run half the town businesses. I'm guessing this little truckers motel was the centre of everything 40 years ago when it was built - liquor store, pub, big restaurant and a couple dozen rooms. TV has storm warning on the weather channel - hopefully it goes through soon as predicted and winds change to westerlies! I wanna ride. 10 minutes later: The storm has arrived. 5 minutes ago it was getting dark. Now it's pouring rain and the winds are westerlies that are so strong they make the flagpoles sway. Storm passed pretty quickly, now it's just light rain and clear skies in the west.

OD 1376.4 km, 3:36:03, 64.91 km, 18.0 km/hr ave, 28.5 max

Sunday July 5 Taber, Alberta

Today turned into a really long one!
Last night things were pretty quiet at the campground. They don't take care of the yards very well but it did have clean washrooms, showers, computer desk, reading area and laundry. Complete with cheesy decor like jigsaw puzzles laminated and hung up on the walls. I watched a beaver in the (Pincher) creek for quite a while last night right in front of my camp site. Today started as usual, then really fast 50 km to Fort McLeod - basically no wind. When I got there the town was desolate, nice old part of town but nobody, not even a parked car. It looked like a movie set and everyone had gone home. I saw the same girl three times as I circled around in disbelief and she went to and from a bank machine. I wrote if off as early Sunday morning (but later the SF couple told me it was like that when they arrived and stayed Saturday night). Next 75 km to Lethbridge was pretty good speedwise but headwinds from the east! picking up. Lethbridge is interesting. Like many Albertan towns it's on the edge of a gulley or whatever the correct geographical term is. There is a 100 y.o. rail bridge that goes from the old east side to the new west side. I was determined to find a way on it but couldn't. West Lethbridge is any-car-town-north-america but East side is cool. Streets are wide enough for 8 lanes of traffic but the economy has slowed things down. Tourist Info centre said Dragon Boat Festival at the lake so off I went. I arrived as the SF couple were leaving. Chatted for a while. If it wasn't for the one Thai food vender it could have been any Redneck festival - country music on stage, wood dance floor in front of it on the grass, mini donuts and hamburgers. I left about 2:30 thinking I would camp asap but there was nothing, nothing until Taber and then it was 2 km off the highway to the town centre for groceries and another 3 km to the campground. The east winds slowing me down the entire 50 km. I think I never got out of the small chain ring. I was ready to toss my bike on the ground and camp beside the highway until the east winds stopped. I cought up the the SF couple and the three of us looked pretty bagged trying to get some energy out of a handfull of nuts. I'm now finished eating and getting cleaned up and it's almost 8:30 pm.

OD 1311.5, 8:35:55, 176.33 km, 20.4 km/hr ave, max 55.6

Saturday July 4

Got woken up just after falling asleep. I guess I didn't have a room to myself afterall. The guy dropped a few items just inside the door and left. I moved my stuff and my bike to one area and when he came back I was nearly asleep. I had to try to remove my stuff and bike as quietly as I could in the morning. No AC or ventilation so it was a pretty warm sleep. On my way before 8:00 am. Easy ride to Crowsnest Pass - actually I'm not sure exactly where it was. I got some photos of myself at the BC and Alberta signs. Coming down from the pass I had the wind in my face. How could that be? Yet there were some storm clouds building over the Rockies and following me. I stopped to put the rain covers on my paniers and kept looking back for lightning (saw a few) and really dark clouds. Rain was very light and lasted only about 1/2 km. I stopped at the Tourist Info at the border and they recommended Cypress Hill. I'm thinking 2 long days in Alberta, one short ride with a night at Cypress Hills then onto Sask. - that would be arrive Wed 8th. The people at the Info Centre said both the SF couple and the Montrealer went through this morning. I did not see them but I'm guessing they could have 50 km on me by now. Now at Pincher Creek private campground. They also had one in town but it was nearly empty except for two Indians drinking beer at one site.

OD 1135.1 km, 6:21:32, 124.57km, 19.5 km/hr ave, max 51.6

Friday July 3

Slept like a log. It's pretty hot out, getting to about 30C each afternon but Cranbrook cools down at night. Up and on my way , short day - about 110 k to Fernie. It seems like it is all down hill to Fernie but some poor pavement and winds made it like any other day. I met up with the SF couple as they were leaving a gas stn/ liquor sote/ motel/ tire shop/ general store. Looks like we are going to keep leap frogging each other. Also met up with the 66 yo Montrealer. I'm still not sure what his bike problem was - in Nelson he said it was glue he needed and today it was something about his 48 tooth chain ring that he just had replaced in Fernie(?) Glad to see his is still going on, and on to Sparwood he said. This town and this hostel are pretty cool. You can see the ski hill at the west end of town and some cool back country mtns to the north. Will try to catch up on my blog today. Again very few people here. I have a room to myself with a bathroom. The "basement" is huge - kitchen, dining, foozeball, piano, pool table, couches, games room and another room with a stage with a giant TV on it. Sign says you can rage on until 1:00 am. (The hostel is called the Raging Elk)

OD 1010.5 4:26:05, 98.79 km, 22.2 km/hr ave, max 52.6

Thursday July 2

I was in bed when the fireworks stared. It seemed to be big and it lasted a long time. I slept until 6:30 am knowing that Cranbrook was not going to be a long day. The San Francisco couple had already left!! (I passed them yesterday). I got going about 8:00am. Got into Yahk and met a great guy that runs a coffee/ ice cream place. He could've talked all day. He was a North Shore Tri member at one time. He had me sign a rock which he keeps by the door. Not long after that I closed the gap on... not the SF couple... but a French Cdn girl. She started in Vancouver 2 weeks ago!! Ditched her friend who was unorganized and could only do 40-50 km per day and she was getting ready to mail excess stuff back home. Her plan was to ride to the east coast. I asked her what it was going to feel like to ride right past home and keep going. She didn't have an answer and I think she might be lucky to make it home in time - and do the rest next year. I'm now sitting at the front door of the Cranbrook Hostel - it is the student residence for the College of the Rockies but the doors don't open until 5:00 pm and it's only about 3:45 now. Got some groceries and beer in town. Cranbrook looks like it wants to become a Kelowna - please don't. For now, there is lots of room for sprawl and they have kept the highway in the centre. My room is like Gage Tower except it is only 4 floors. I am in a pod of 6 bedrooms with a shared kitchen and 2 baths. I am the only one here!! Now I understand why some people say they are bored and lonely when they do this trip. There are some students on the other floors and a few watching CMT in the main common room. Maybe I'll clean my waterbottles for the first time since I left, that will make my workmates happy.

OD 908.0 km, 5:13;33, 108.50 km, 20.7 ave, 46.0 max.

Wednesday July 1 Happy Birthday Canada

Slept like a log until 7:00 am and left ~8:30. Rode north to Balfour and caught the ferry with only enough time to get a coffee and muffin from a true Nelsonite who travelled all over the world but keeps coming back. Two other cyclist on the small ferry (a new larger one also running opposite this one). Both with BOB trailers heading out to their cottages for a few days. I think I figured it out a while later. One was legally blind so he couldn't drive but he could some how ride a bike back to Calgary!! Beautiful ride south along Kootenay Lake from the ferry to Creston on yet another cloudless day. Stopped at a beach that said no overnight camping but I sure was tempted to stay. Lots of people there but decided I should push on to Creston. Stayed at a private campground near the town centre which is feeling the effects of the economy shall we say. Spent most of the evening drinking with a fellow that lives in town with his wife but came out here to camp. Stopped at the park/ bandshell for Canada Day celebrations but it wasn't riveting shall we say.

OD 799.5km, 5:44:43, 119.33 km, 20.7 ave, 59.8 max

Tuesday June 30

As expected, the municipal park is a hangout for teenagers after dark. About six girls laughing and chatting away on a picnic table for hours. Then the spriklers turned on with a thwack-thwack against the tree trunks. Chatted with the couple next site over in the morning then off I went at 25 km/hr down to Christina Lake then a long climb up to Bonanza-Polson summit at 1500+ m. Rode with a 66 year old Montrealer for a short while he was moteling it, pulling his gear in a tote on a trailer. He said he was going to Nelson but I an wondering if he can do it in one day. It's 11:30 am now and I've just cleared the summit. Gotta love the MP3 player - I haven't used it a lot bc FM reception not always good, batteries die, wind noise etc but as I crested summit I was singing along to Great Big Sea "When I'm up I can't get down" I stopped at Castlegar for a coffee and a fabulous macaroon madness. After the best descent I've ever done. The map said 26 km from Nancy Green Prov Park to Castlegar so I figured about an hour. It took less than half that. Continuous descent all the way. Castlegar was too big to be too friendly so didn't dissappoint me to leave. About 10 km out of Nelson I came acress the 66 year old Montrealer. He needed glue (?) got a ride (I guess to Nelson) and was now riding back to Trail (!?) I'm really worried about him now. I got to Nelson and missed the turn to the InfoCentre and stopped to get my bearings. I was across the street form the Hostel. It's open but I can't check in bc there is no reception until 4:00 pm a half hour from now. Things pretty quiet here. Check in makes it sound nearly full (Real Estate ad says 43 guests and all yours for $750k) but I haven't seen too many people - mostly European students trying to make a few dollars under the table and some older ones but they aren't very chatty. Met one of my roommates just now ~8:00 pm Nelson is still cool - exceptionally hippie or sports junkie - esp mtn bike - and not much in between. A few restaurant patios make for a great atmosphere. Too bad the waterfront is mostly industry.

OD 680.0, 6:46:22hrs, 139.09 km, 20.5 km/hr ave, 61.4 max (it's hard to go faster due to scary wind gusts and paniers are not very aerodynamic)

Monday June 29
Anarchist Summit 1223 m, 31.2 km from camp in Osoyoos, 2:28:34. Average speed 12.6 km/hr - just above tipping over speed. It's now about 2:30 in the afternoon and I'm just getting to my journal. Went into town yesterday for a few supplies, hung out on the beach, read etc. Campground is shoulder to shoulder but people keep to themselves and everything was very quiet. Cool temps last night for Osoyoos, lots of wind too. I got up on the early side and G left just before me at 7:00 am. He thought I was having a late start. Climbed up Anarchist Summit and met the French Cdn couple F&S at the rest area. They had camped there overnight. They are discouraged with the climbs and have decided to skip Banff and get to the praires asap. They took photos of my map to help them along the way. Stopped at Rock Creek for coffee. Not much there except 3 coffee places. The one I chose was the most organic etc. They even roasted the beans on the patio with propane roasters. Had some fresh fruit and yogurt with it. Greenwood is bigger than I remember. If it wasn't at `85 km I ould have liked to stay there. One of the few places so far that has kept the old buildings and olso has lots of other activities and facilities. Now resting at Phoenix Mtn Summit (easy climb). Will head down for Grand Forks now. I've been to GF a few times including after IM Couer d'Alene. Ate at the usual GF Hotel and I couldn't finish my combo plater. Took it back to my site at the Municipal Campground 3 blocks from the hotel and pratically across the street from City Hall. When I arrived it was me and 3 RVs. None of us with 50 m of another. I was worried I would get my stuff stolen but back at camp after dinner and we got more including 3 tenters. Don't know if it was the big dinner or the pint of beer on maybe the ride but I'm feeling pretty tired at 7:20 pm. Noticed a BMX park right nest the campground. Went over a and a mom was there with her two kids who were racing tomorrow. I tried her Cdn Tire bike and what a blast, sandals, no helmet and now I'm wide awake. Later chatted with this old guy for a while. He is what Brian B will be in 20 years, ski all winter, mtn bike all summer hang out in Nelson in between seasons.

OD 540.9, estimate 128.1 km, 7 hours, 18.2 km/hr ave (oops, zero'd computer)

Sunday June 28
Last night I awoke to the sound of rain on the tent! Here in Princeton? Got up moved paniers into the tent then looked up to the sky and I could see stars and just a few patches of clouds. I shouldn't have bothered getting up. I think I was second up. A fellow from Colorado left ~5:30 am. I was on my way at 7:45 (a trend?) and I could see it was going to be a hot one. Fast down hill ride to Kerameos. My average speed was over 26 km/hr. Stopped at a Dutch food store (Lana you would love it) It was a fruit stand but the ~90 year old women who owned it said she couldn't compete against the other fruit stands so now she sells Dutch food. Sign said coffee and apple pie $2.50. I asked for coffee, noting the home type machine wasn't even on, so the son-in-law put on a pot while I browsed around. R poured herslf a up too and sat down with me. I could have stayed all day. She had had a tough life but was one of the happiest people I've ever met. (I'll leave personal details out of this blog and some names too) I finally pulled myself away and while putting on my cycling gear she was telling customers what I was doing so they were coming out to talk to me. Then on to Osoyoos ( I will correct place name spellings in September) I knew I would see Ironman cyclist and sure enough did see about 2 dozen. The best part was I had the wind in my favour around Crawston so I was loaded up, doing 40 km/hr, witha big wave while they struggled in their tribars. That changed as I started climbing Ritchter Pass. Came down to fancy InfoCentre, met two cyclist that flew to Vancouver and were heading back to Montreal. InfoCentre pointed out camping areas and recommended Ningkumpoop. I went in, they said $39.00 plus tax !!I looked around at all the p/u trucks, trailers and dust and rode right out. I wanted to stay near town so I went to the east side of the lake and found a place that looked satisfactory. As I pulled up to the office and hadn't even found a place to lean my bike a fellow about my age came over to talk. I asked if he was the owner and he said yes. We chatted for a while about favourite bike rides, races, IMC etc. He didn't race because he didn't like swimming (rather be scuba diving he said). He gave me a great deal on a nice little patch of cool grass. Thanks, G.

OD 404.8, 5:14:37, 123.15 km, 23.4km/hr ave, max 58.3

Day 4 - I think I'll stop using that designation. Sat June 27. Slept ok last night , some teenager noise but a few beers and exhaustion made me sleep deep. Beth showed up last night as planned with curry and rice. Sat around the campfire laughing and drinking herbal tea. This morning Kevin drove back to town to work and Beth rode up the hill to the Hope Slide with me. It was about 20 km ant 10 km/hr. She's quick with the wit - when we caught up to two local women on their bikes for a ride Beth said she was crossing Canada and I was carrying her gear. She tried to set them up with me. I finally had to force Beth to turn around or her day would have been over 180 km with the first 20 uphill. Catching up on my journal at Rodo Flats. Climbing didn't end until allison Pass at 1342 m, 4 hours and ave speed on 15.2 km/hr!! I think the pass was hiding the wind. Now down at Manning Park Lodge, splurging at the restaurant. Overall today's ride is not what I want to do too often - It turned into a long day 7:45am to 5:00+ pm with little sightseeing - just trying to climb and climb and get to Princeton asop. Due to the hills my overall ave speed was 18.9 km/hr. I'm camping at the River's Edge which was recommended. RVs in a row away from the water, house-office-washrooms in the middle row and tenters on the river's edge. There is a sign behind my tent which says Keep off Dyke but I doubt it would hold back anything. Before this trip I imagined myself going to the grocery store for fresh tortellini etc and cooking at my camp site - tonight I went to a sub shop and a juice outlet. Put some music on the MP3 player, then CBC - the only other choice was country, seems I'm missing music after only one day. The campground owner came around. He had been out at a golf dinner and was just making his rounds to meet everyone new. He even offered me a chair to rest - the picnic table was fine I told him. He asked if the water was ok for drinking from my water bottles. I got the impression he would have given me one of his cedar lawn chairs from his deck and bottled water if I had asked for it.

OD 281.6, 7:34:16, 143.21 km, 18.9 km/hr ave, max 62.9

Weeks later, Day 3, June 26/09 Left home about 7;00am and met Kevin in Pitt Meadows. He joined me for the day for the ride out to Hope. Beth working so she is driving out to meet us for dinner. Found the worst bike facilities in Maple Ridge. It has always been a problem when road training on the back roads but the Lougheed Hwy is even worse. Saw Mark while riding or should I say he saw us and honked from his Sysco truck. Found out later Dawn spotted us to but she was expecting a solo rider so she didn't wave. Couldn't find a coffee place in Mission so we went to Dewdney near the Pickle road. The general store on the east side is dark but the restaurant was good. Kevin and I filled up on coffee and baked goods. Made it to campground just after 3;00. It seems that most people here park their trailers for the summer. Kind of reminds me of Bobcaygon as a teenager.
OD zero'd in the morning, 138.4 km, 6:26:36, 138.45 Km, 21.4 ave, max 58.0