Mon Aug 10 Quebec City

Pub was fun last night as I got to speak English with other foreigners staying here. Up this morning, ate, did some internet banking and blogging. Went to the North American - Francophone museum. It is in one of the first buildings on the site which started out as a seminary and after many additions, fires, English bombings and French rule, it has become part of Laval University (Architecture) and a high school. It was much better than the Museum of Civilization which was recommended to me to learn about Quebec history. Spent most of the rest of the day wandering around, eating and catching up on chores. Got to get back on the bike and make up for all the short days and the days of no riding at all.

Zero - walking and walking today.

Sun Aug 9 Ville de Quebec aka Quebec City or mostly just Quebec

First up at the hostel, no one at desk until 8:00 and I guess no one working office hours. Last night my roommate came in about 4:00 am and one closer to 5:oo. Now I know it's a hostel etc etc but the one who came in at 5:00 put on his headlamp and started munching on crackers!! I wanted to make as much noise as I could when I got up but then remembered that "You know you are an athlete when your day begins at 5:30 am, not ends" Well I didn't start at 5:30 but on the road before 8:00. Scenic ride along #138 which is the main route of Le Route Verte a bicycle route through Quebec and Chemin de Roy, no not the goalie but a driving interpretive route past all the old churches. Don't know if the guidebook is bilingual. Often I took the routes when it veered from the "highway" (2 lanes, wide shoulders, light traffic) as it went through the old part of town and sometimes only added a couple hundred metres to the ride. Saw many cyclist out today, couples, families, tri-heads, light tourist but no clubs - maybe they ride early in the morning. drafted off some, passed many, even dropped a few that couldn't hold the pace. Veered off the Hwy coming close to Quebec then completely lost the main Hwy. City not in sight, no signs, useless maps, construction detours, no directions other than the hostel street address and I knew it is in the old city. Somehow found the old city (again no Info Centre, no signs directing you to the old city) without a hitch and there were volunteers blocking car access to parts of the old city. I asked where the hostel was and the volunteer said it was one block ahead. It was easier to find than Thunder Bay's. BIG hostel, almost too big but will stay two nights and then have some big days so I don't get too far behind schedule. Wandered the streets tonight and went for Chinese food - do you believe it? Ordered in French: poulet, beauf etc. Rain started falling ~9:oo pm so back to the hostel where they have a pub down stairs.

OD 5625.7 km, 6:48:29, 138.21 km, 20.3 ave, 51.2 max

Sat Aug 8 Trois Riveries PQ

Woke up to blue skies, even put on some sunscreen. Took me until nearly 9:00 am to get rolling on the Hwy. Took me even longer to realize that it is the weekend. I know I can not make Quebec City in one day as it is ~ 225 km away. Will make it two easy days. When going through Brethierville there was a traffic jam on the Hwy to get into the Tim Horton's drive through. And these people are afraid of losing their culture!! I went to a take out place for coffee and frites (Ontario had lots of people selling burgers and fries from trucks here it's like the old Wally Burgers everywhere) Got to Trois Riveries an older working class town (Kruger Paper et al) and stopped at the very busy, very down town Info Centre. Didn't want to wait and then realized that there is a hostel here, it's only ~ 120 km to Quebec City and some dark clouds are rolling in so I left the InfoCentre and found my way through the narrow one way streets to the hostel. Smaller place, an old typical brick, 3 storey house that is done up well and kept very organized. Went for a walk downtown - it is jammed packed with Cafes, bistros, bars and patios but of course I'm looking for a grocery store tonight. The city also has a lot of old, fat, balding, white guys on Harley's. Motorcycles even have designated parking spaces on the street. Also an Italian festival going on (a language other than French!) the only thing I saw was a show and shine that started with little Italian cars that looked like old Mini's then Fiats, Alfa Romeo, and Lamborghini's.

OD 5487.5 km, 4:09:16, 95.48 km, 22.9 ave, 37.4 max

Friday Aug 7 Joliette, PQ

Showers overnight so not in any rush to get out of bed. Windy this morning so everything dry and packed so on my way at 9:00 am. Route finding going well, kind of making it up as I go along. Changes from farmland to small town (church and hardware store only) to small city and back again very quickly. Roads are all good pavement, wide shoulders and drivers treat you as an equal. They even expect me to be assertive when I have the r.o.w. No English to be seen on signs, menu's or anywhere but people outside eating at 9:30 in the morning. I'm going to have to find the subtle differences between cafes, bistros, restaurants etc by stopping at as many as I can. Had crepes francaises for an early lunch, It was basically a fresh fruit plate with a little pasterie and it was fantastic. Like yesterday I am hiding from local showers. Seems to be a big one in front of me that I keep catching up to. Three guys on road bikes passed me in the afternoon and I caught up to them a few minutes later when they stopped for a break. They have small day packs, lots of gels and are going to Trois Riveries today and Quebec City tomorrow. A big ride today but easy ride tomorrow. They are drafting off each other and are probably doing 35 to my 20 km/hr. Later I suspect they may have been caught in one of the showers. I stopped in Joliette. Confusing lay out of the streets as they follow the rivers and the railway. Took me quite some time to find the InfoCentre. They showed me where the groc stores and campgrounds are. Talked to a guy outside about Quebec, politics, must sees and he felt I had to be on some kind of quest and if not I would realize it later. Got to the camp ground and settled in at 5:30. That's a civilized time to stop. I can't stop eating, I don't know what I would do if I were using the Warm Shower List. This town is very French, the InfoCentre (young girls) were stumbling with English and every one seems to be French only (like the campground owners).

OD 5392.0 km, 5:59:55, 122.42 km, 20.4 ave, 39.6 max

Thursday Aug 6 Quebec, La belle province

(The view of the St Lawrence from my campsite)

Didn't make it to the light show as I got socializing at the hostel and then out drinking with Craig form Nottingham and Clement form Austria. Craig is cycling coast to coast via Prince Rupert the Rockey Mtn Parkway and some US states (Minnisota to Detroit). Clement is just 18 but very knowlegable and will go far in life. He didn't have his ID at the pub, all but outright said he was underage but they said he could drink anyway, that's the kind of guy he is. Got up early to find the Trois Rivieres-ians were getting ready to leave too. We left at about the same time but they headed to Gatineau and the north side fo the river and I headed east to try out the farmland routes. My way was really good, even when riding through some of the best (worst) examples of North American urban sprawl. Somehow, someone at city hall got bike lanes added between the through traffic and the right turning lanes. Worked great as I got to see all the big boxes, and outlet malls repeated between cookie cut houses. Got out on the farmland and that genetic defect of mine (had to race to catch up to a guy that was out for a training ride) had me chatting with a guy who finally has some time off as his consulting/ contracting work has slowed (sounds familiar). He was in Africa for 5 weeks ("sitting in safari trucks") and will be going to Algonquin for a few weeks next. He basically told me to change my route to the old #17, rode me out to it, gave me good instructions and it was well worth it. The road is usually 50 to 200 m from the water, big houses on the water and farmland on the south side of the road. I also realized that I may have been in Ontario but it was very French Catholic. I say my bonjours but people quickly realize that I can't speak French and they (so far) pleasantly speak English for me. Had to dodge 3 rain showers today. The first had the most intense rain with the least protection. The second one I found a picnic/ conservation area with a picnic shelter. The third one wasn't too bad - I was under cover at what might have been a volunteer fire hall. Made it to Hawksbury about 5:00 but couldn't find a grocery store anywhere. Finally found one no where near a main road. Went to the ATM too - must be welfare day or something as there was a line up (4 machines and population ~10,000) Could not find a campsite either so I went over the bridge to Quebec. Both the Ont and Quebec InfoCentres were closed (after 6:00 pm) so I asked an older guy where the closest campground was. Rode along north side of Ottawa River, again $1 million houses on the river side and thinking no one would have a campground here, I came across La Route Vert and a 400+ site campground. It's not even bilingual (except for the guy taking my money) but it is nice, clean, on the water and quiet. What is probably a 120 km day turned into 150+ with scenic route rather than #17 and riding all over Hawksbury looking for supplies and a campground that does not exist. In bed early as it's dark at 8:45 pm.

OD 5269.5 km, 7:06:33, 152.57 km, 21.4 ave, 41.1 max

Wednesday August 5 Ottawa ON

Thunderstorms did come in ~ dinner time yesterday. When the rain slowed I went to a little Mexican restaurant in the ByWard Market area. Later went to parliament bldg for light show but it was cancelled due to weather. Dorm filled up, luckily my bed is right beside the little AC unit and not one of the higher priced former jail cells with no windows or AC. Got up early and went to the War Museum by walking along the Canal and Ottawa River paths. Sorry Vancouver but Ottawa may have us beat for bike facilities; rental bikes from kiosks for ByWard Market, every type of rider commuting by bike and lots along the path I took. Spent nearly the entire day at the museum and finally left about 4:00. They just present the all the facts they can, with a Canadian perspective (ie no Nagasaki or Hiroshima) but you can't help but be moved at times. Went to Parliament Hill for a tour and did the same tour that I did before with OPSS. Of course being summer and after hours (6:00 pm) I didn't get to meet the PM, my MP or anyone else but I did get most of the trivia questions right. The big changes since I was last there? No, not Nunavut, but airport-type security to get in and a gift shop to get out. Will try to get to the light show tonight - I missed the jail tour once again.

No bike miles, huge walking kms and standing hrs.

Tuesday August 4 Ottawa ON

Got up early and tried to dry tent as I don't know what the Ottawa hostel will have for outside drying space. One of the strange characters has sat down at my picnic table to tell me his tales of woe while I pack up. Finally had to cut him off as I was leaving. Hwy 17 has some more of the most dangerous designs that I have ever seen. It becomes Hwy 417 and at some point cyclists are not allowed but this is only communicated at the on ramps which I can not see. I got off at Hwy 20 and it passed the Diefenbunker which I should have toured - maybe next time. The route went through Kanata and all the high tech offices with empty parking lots. It was just past noon so I saw a few out for walks and runs with their ID and swipee cards. Luckily I checked the maps for MEC as it is on the west side of town. Dropped in to pickup supplies. People kept coming up to me when I was locking up my bike to talk and shake my hand. Good to be in a larger city with the smells of foreign food, especially Indian, sounds of different languages and I got to ride like a bicycle courier. Found the hostel with little difficulty (map at MEC, some construction) and met two young Trois Rivieres-ians finishing up a 10 week loop through Boston, Chicago, Toronto. They went to all the major cities they could with their mountain bikes, trailer and only doing ~80 km/day. Weather pretty good today but a strong S wind that might be bringing thunder storms.

OD 5116.9 km, 4:33:10, 102.34 km, 22.4 ave, 46.6 max

Monday August 3 north of Renfrew ON

(18%, more like 6%, the MoT can't do math either)

Writing this once again in the dark so I don't know if I;ll be able to read it later. Spent last night sitting around the fire with a couple from Sudbury who are tenting it but have been going to this site for the last 4 years. Last night was clear but as I packed up it started getting cloudy. Knowing that I had two relatively easy days (360 km total) to Ottawa I made lots of stops, side trips and excursions into most of the towns along the way. Actually was in Quebec for a few moments, went to Petawawa and Pembroke also Renfrew. Found some of the worst pavement today (neglected and unmaintained) also some of the worst engineered shoulders with rumble strips taking up the entire 18" shoulder. This is so negligent it should be criminal. The Ontario MoT will be hearing from me. Light rain started falling in the afternoon. I thought it wouldn't last but it might. Turned off the highway due to above mentioned pavement and holiday Monday traffic and went on side Hwys to Renfrew where the map showed there is a campground. Rode from east end of town all the way to west end where just off Hwy 17 I found the InfoCentre. The girl sent me north to 17 then WEST for a couple km then 5 km north to a campground. The east bound holiday traffic was bumper to bumper and it's still ~100 km to Ottawa!! This campground was one of the most expensive I've stayed at (except Ont Prov Parks) and while it has lots of things to do it's pretty junky and seems to have some strange characters. Due to the rain I'm hiding out in the tent so I won't see any of them.

OD 5014.6 km, 7:40:21, 159.37 km, 20.7 ave, 43.5 max

Sunday Aug 2 Mackey ON

It rained nearly all night and especially hard ~5 to 6 am. Didn't know what I would do as I didn't want to ride in that. Got up ~7:30 and it was sunny. J&L fed me breakfast and gave me some food to go as well. We crammed the bike in the car and the 3 of us went to the InfoCentre as that was convenient and I guess if anyone is keeping track the exact same picnic table from where I was picked up. After unloading the bike it started raining so we sat inside the car waiting for the shower to pass. Not long after it did so I loaded up the bike we took some photos and said our good byes. It seemed to take me about another hour to get rolling as I kept stopping to adjust gear, pump up tires, add and remove clothes and duck under a tree to let another shower pass. As the day went on it got clearer and the SWesterlies picked up. Passed by one campground as the map showed a Prov Park ahead. The PP was full so I went a little further to the next town which has a campground on the Ottawa River (actually a tributary called Mackey Creek). Not much for me as it is like an RV/ trailer park filled with families that are here most of the summer. It reminds me of Bobcaygeon as a teenager except there is no town so I don't know what the kids do. Because everyone knows each other here, I have become somewhat of a celebrity as everyone has to come by and say "So you're the guy cycling from...."

OD 4855.2 km, 6:03:41, 138.27, 22.7 km, 62.6 max

Sat August 1 North Bay ON

Just a relaxing day - a holiday - for all of us. Didn't do too much and didn't even touch the bike. Drove into town but most of the waterfront was closed off for the Summer in the Park festival. Sounded like the Tragically Hip was rehearsing on stage when we were there. Went through the North Bay museum which is inside the original train station then went to Main Street to pick up a few supplies from the outdoor store and the drug store. I won't be able to reach Ottawa in 2 days (375 km) but maybe 2.5 days with a 1.5 day stay. At dinner everyone surprised me with a birthday cake, I often forget that's it's my birthday.

OD no changes.

Friday July 31 North Bay

I'm getting this dew thing figured out. Grass, table etc are soaked but clothes on the line and tent aren't. Only need to do 77 km by midday so I'm not rushing. Not much along the way except it looks more like Southern Ontario (farming on river/ Lake Nippising) and the weather is more summer like. North Bay is much bigger than I thought it was but I've never been here before as I always stopped at Uncle J and Aunt L's place just south in Collander. The premier must be from here because they are building a new hospital about the size of VGH at the north end of town. Arrived at the InfoCentre as scheduled about 1:00 pm and called Uncle J who is on his way to pick me up. The InforCentre is busy - North Bay is where a number of highways meet up and it's the start of the long weekend and the North Bay festival Summer in the Park. Got to J and L's place to find that B and D had arrived. Spent the day reminiscing drinking beer like Robertson's, watching some CFL and had dinner at the Legion. We all bought tickets for meat draws, cheese draws and who knows what else but we didn't win a thing.

OD 4717.0, 3:22:38, 81.90 km, 24.2 ave, 49.2 max

Thurs July 30 Hagar ON

(My typical dinner: green pepper, tomato, noodles, in this case smoked fish, oil and spices)

Called Mark last night and noticed live music being played at the cottages. Finished up with Mark and went over to see. They had a gazebo for live music a few seats inside (protected form weather and bugs) and a bunch of us sitting outside on picnic tables under a sign that said "where friends gather" or something like that. The band and most of the people I talked to were regulars up for an extended time that played bluegrass music. They were from Kentucky and tried to explain how bluegrass differs form country music to me. (I couldn't tell you). Got on the road this morning after finding the dew had soaked everything, so I started off with wet clothes, socks and shoes. Dark skies often but never really felt like it was going to rain except when I came out of the groc store east of Sudbury. Bit of a surprise this morning when I got on the highway and the sign said North Bay 250 km. Oops that's not two easy days, or a day and a half like I told everyone so I will have to pick up the pace, extend today's ride and maybe start early on Friday. Sudbury seems like a large city (165,000 pop) larger than what I thought it was. I had no desire to see it or a city that large so I managed to bypass it without much difficulty. I think I was riding on parts that bikes were not allowed but it had the best paved shoulders that I had seen since Dryden-Kenora. Got out of Sudbury and thought I should start looking for a place to camp. Map had me worried because it showed nothing until Sturgeon Falls which would have made today over 200 km. Luckily I saw some signs at ~5:oo pm indicating one motel/ campground on the highway and one probably nice place ~5 km off the highway. (5 km doesn't sound like much but it is when your are doing a trip like this) Paid for the motel campsite without even seeing it (all I asked about were showers- yes, picnic table - yes, and water - yes) The four tables were practically on the side of the highway in a huge grass yard (100 m by 200m ) without a single tree. I pitched my tent way at the back under some willows and noticed by the marks in the grass another solo cyclist did the same thing probably last night. The showers and the bathroom are the best I've ever seen in a campground (maid service supplies fresh towels and those hotel soaps and shampoos). Unfortunately I'm alone here tonight and the few stores in the town are closed for the night.

OD 4635.0 km, 7:22:15, 169.25 km, 22.9 ave, 49.0 max

Wed July 29 Spanish ON

Today would have been a perfect day to do 200 km but I was sightseeing so I got nowhere close to that. Woke up to the sound of rain on the tent but it was obvious that it was only a very light shower lasting a couple of minutes. Enough to wet the tent fly but everything else like the picnic table was dry because it was covered by the cedars I camped under. Took my time getting going so much so that I think I was the last of 5 to leave. Had a good wind at my back and the clouds with dark bottoms kept the occasional sun from overheating me. Talked to a couple of young Quebec guys with guitars etc that sold their cars, quit their jobs and were moving to the Rockies or Vancouver for the winter. Ahhh youth. Found the smoked fish place that Beth raved about. It is about 3 days away form where she said it was :) The guy was in the middle of a batch with some white fish ready to come out. Listened to his opinion on everything that's wrong with the world then took two whole fish still warm and strapped them to the bike. I stopped at a picnic area/ hiking area at Serpent River a short time later where the river has a few rapids, drop offs and steep corners. I was thinking a bear smelling the smoked fish could have had me cornered pretty easily. Ate one fish for dinner, it was mmmarvelous. Will try to hang the second one away from the raccoons and have it tomorrow. Stopped at Spanish a little after 4:00 pm because I didn't want to make it a rushed evening. The campground is about 1 km from town/ Hwy. It was kind of a sketchy area, the place is a cheap marina, repair yard with RVs, cottages slipping off their foundations and a large patch of grass for tenters. Washrooms, showers are clean and they only charged me $7.00 !! Looks like I will get to North Bay midday Friday without any trouble. Blake and Don will be there too.

OD 4465.7 km, 5:25:13, 127.14 km, 23.4 ave, 50.9 max

Tues July 28 Bruce Mines ON

A couple drops of rain fell last night but woke up to everything dry. Got going with threatening skies but as I finished my trip around the north side of Lake Superior and got to Sault Ste Marie summer arrived. Sunshine, low humidity and only a few dozen mosquitoes in the evening. Stopped at Chippewa River for a few photos - must be more spectacular at high water. There is a plaque there commemorating the completion of the Trans Canada Hwy in 1962. The plaque is\was at the mid point between Victoria and St John's. Now I.m feeling anxious, wondering if I'm behind schedule. The highway is flattening out somewhat but there still seems to be a few unnecessary climbs. The last 10 km into The Sault are a nice downhill ( I've now been to The Hat, The Peg and The Sault, one more to go: The Rock). I avoided the downtown portion and took the highway bypass only stopping at Tim Horton's and then for some groceries. Got my first real flat - likely a pinch flat flying into town. I thought it was low after eating and it was flat by the time I finished groceries. Fixed it at the front of the store and nobody batted an eye. As I turned east I had a pretty good tail wind that I was going to use to get to Thessalon but instead noticed a sign pointing out the municipal campground here at Bruce Mines. Sometimes they can be a pretty good deal. Sometimes not. This one looks pretty good, it's cheap - $10.00 including shower and firewood. The town was a copper mine in 1860 - 1870 and there are lots of old houses and churches (from ~1900 I'm guessing). Active community and busy downtown despite a population of 600.

OD 4338.6 km, 6:33:34, 147.32 km, 22.4 ave 60.7 max

Monday July 27 Pancake Bay Prov Park

Fog still lingering when I got up this morning. Cooked breakfast inside the motel and got going to get to the InfoCentre at 8:00 to use their computer for a little while. About 15 km ride to Lake Sup Prov Park and at the same time fog cleared. Started ride thinking I should be wearing 3 layers and soon one was enough. Fog returned on and off throughout the day as did the wind. The park also seemed to have 3 times as many uphills as downhills. All day I felt like I was dragging something. Stopped a number of times to check things out in the park likes beaches, coves and inland lakes. Stopped for a late lunch at the main camping area. Campground did not seem very full at all probably because they charge about $32.00 and up for a site. Rode to Pancake Bay Prov Park. The beach is great, the water is relatively warm because it is only ~2 feet deep for the first 25 meters from shore. Nice to go for a swim and do some camping at last. This campground has ~200 sites, nearly full tonight, lots of families, a few here for the summer (lottery system to get one of those sites) and except for being beside the Hwy it is fairly quiet and the people are friendly. Today while telling my story to a bunch of people from Milwalkee, I realized that I have crossed the halfway mark (4.5 weeks) on my trip and that thought has really bummed me out. Halfway over:(

OD 4191.3 km, 8:13:18, 153.82 km, 18.6 ave, 55,2 max

Sunday July 26 Wawa ON

Got up to rain falling outside the motel so I was in no rush to get going. Made oatmeal and coffee on my stove as there is no coffee maker or microwave in the motel. I guess they want you to walk across the parking lot to the restaurant. Got going and for the first few hours there was on and off rain but weather got better, rain stopped, roads dried, no wind nor humidity makes it feel much warmer than it is so I was in short sleeves most of the time. Stopped at White Pine where Winnie the Pooh began. Noticed a sign for Jen's Cafe but it was closed (Sunday) so I went to a truckers chain. I have given up my daily quest for good coffee and home baked goodies. Weather was getting so much better that I was tempted to get some supplies in Wawa, continue south and camp in Lake Superior Prov Park but ~1 hr out of Wawa the rain came down so hard that I took shelter in the trees. And after most of my clothes, my shoes and my socks hanging off the back of my bike had nearly dried! Watched a bear from the highway for a short while earlier. It wasn't happy when it realized that I saw it first. I still haven't seen a moose. After the rain shower I could see and feel a cold moist air mass coming at Wawa. I grabbed a motel and some supplies. The air mass was the lake-effect fog that's common here. It brought a little rain but not much more.

OD 4037.4 km, 6:30:06, 135.10 km, 20.7 ave, 46.6 max

Sat. July 25 Gloria's Motel and Restaurant (outside of White Lake Prov. Park)

Got up and watched some Tour de France and some Weather Network. Weather was supposed to be light rain all day with accumulations of about 5 mm (ie 1-3 mm during day and 1-3 mm evening) Not so. Started out with some fog, mist and occasional light shower. Got to a picnic area- view point where p b & j bagels and talked with a number of people: locals, tourists and those leaving Toronto for somewhere else. Got some great advice, especially from one local who left when a group of 12 on Harley's pulled up. Since Marathon was the only town on today's ride I thought I would take the ride 7 km off the highway to see the place. Before I got there the rain poured down. When I got to the turnoff I was soaked especially from riding down the hills and the area was one giant active muddy construction site. It was only about noon so I kept going and did not see Marathon. Unlike yesterday there was little wind and it was warmer so I was wet but not cold. The rain kept coming harder and harder until I had to get off the road and take shelter under some trees. Questioning why I was doing this trip the rain just kept falling harder. When it at last slowed somewhat I got back on the highway and noticed patches of blue sky in front of me. Soon I could see my shadow! the Tech gold mines and the sun was out drying me and my gear. I stopped at Gloria's Motel and Restaurant while it was sunny. I was thinking maybe I should be camping. Checked in after swapping parenting stories (like city vs here) with the owner - yes, Gloria. Then had dinner in the trucker's restaurant - I couldn't finish my dinner it was so big. Later walked across the highway to the lake and noticed some dark clouds approaching. In the time it took me to write today's entry the clouds came in, the hydro went out, the thunder came, about 10 mm of rain fell, it stopped and the hydro came back on. I am getting tired of riding in the rain for 4 hrs per day and staying at motels!! When will it end.

OD 3902.3 km, 6:19:56, 117.74, 18.5 ave, 54.1 max (could probably add 10 km and 30 minutes due to rain shorting out speedometer)

Friday July 24 Terrace Bay ON

Got up at 7:00am to rain falling on the tent. Made breakfast and coffee and packed things up using the 'shower house" as a shelter from the rain. Got going and the wind and rain really got going. Visibility is usually less than 1 km, sometimes more like 200 m. The wind from the lake drives the rain into my skin like needles. I wanted to check my thermometer but I was too cold to take a look - I'm guessing it was about 8C. People warned me of the hills in this stretch along the lake and I got a taste of the Steep ups and downs. Not reduced to walking yet but always looking for an easier gear on my bike. I thought Marathon would be a respectable distance today but my feet were like blocks of ice so I stopped at a motel in Terrace Bay. Friendly little town, I think it's on the lake but I can't see it. After getting warmed up I spent the rest of the day updating my blog, shopping, easting and drying out my gear. Eating - I'm getting tired of nonstop eating! Also spent lots of time on the phone catching up with everyone and I still have hours and hours left on my calling card.

OD 3784.6, 3:31:02, 57.43 km, 16.3 ave, 47.8 max.

Thurs July 23 Gravel River ON

Got up this morning to find I got my first flat. So what will I subtitle my adventure now? I wanted it to be no flats and no rain. Seems I got a tiny puncture flat that even overnight did not let all the air out. No problem fixing it in the dorm with a kitchen sink across the hall and a chair to sit in. Sleeping was uncomfortable due to the humidity yet it was so foggy and cold out that I had to wear my nylon jacket. My glasses got covered in water droplets that I had to clean them every few seconds. It didn't lift until ~11:00 am when I met a cyclist from Niagara Falls going around the lakes. He has done some big trips so I tried to get as much info from him as I could. Stopped at the Thunder Bay InfoCentre on my way out of town - Not much good at that point but they do have a good Terry Fox statue and rest area (probably a good view when the visibility is greater than 100m). Later stopped at Nipigon Info Centre, had lunch at Gus' Restaurant, picked up some groceries and headed further east as it was barely 4:00pm. Nipigon seems depressed, I think the pulp/paper mill is down but I don't know for sure.) The girl at the InfoCentre said that Gravel River had camping "but you won't find it on any map" The billboards and other signs said it to be a gas stn, motel, LCBO outlet and gift store. I went in at ~7:00 pm and said to the owner that I heard you have camping. He took my $15 and walked me out to the place. The shower is in a wooden shed that he runs an extension cord out to for lights and 2 garden hoses (hot and cold) from the motel. I couldn't find a toilet. He told me that he would shut the water off at closing time because one time a bear ate through the hoses and the water ran all night. (I'll try to get some photos up for this one)

OD 3727.1, 8:08:42, 164.12 km, 20.1 ave, 48.6 max

Wed July 22 Thunder Bay ON

I'll blame it on the time change, wink, wink. Didn't get out of the motel until 9:30 am. The guys on the Harley's woke me up - outside, smoking their faces off. They got rolling just after I fired up my stove for breakfast. Finally made the time - had to clean up my bike. Despite 4 hrs riding in the rain some of that Assiniboine River bottom mud or should I say cement was still stuck to the fenders and racks and the chain was showing rust. The girl in the motel with the U-Haul was probably shaking her head after seeing the Harley guys clean their bikes and them me cleaning my bike. Rain threatened but didn't happen and by noon I was in the sunshine, cool but to me anyway it was humid. The locals are in jeans and hoodies. Met a guy today riding east, the first I've met so far. He updated me on some of the others that are now ahead of me. Staying tonight at the Confederation College student dorm - no kitchen facilities as these are for the ones who eat in the cafeteria. Not sure if it really is part of the HI hostels or if it was just a couple of kids that took me for $25.00. Nevertheless the keys work and I got everything I need. I always try to stay away from the franchised fry pits but tonight I thought I'd try some thing new to me: Montana's. Forget it if you're vegetarian or even mildly enviro about your fish, or if you want to sit out on a patio. It was OK, nothing unique about it except they deep fry the cheesecake. A quick look at the map says I'm going to be riding hard for the next 7 or 8 days to get to North Bay. Crossed into the Eastern time zone today and over the Artic/ Atlantic divide today. Ontario doesn't seem to be into those historical/ geographical/ heritage markers - those are about all I've seen in the last four days.

OD 3562.9, 6:52:23, 138.26km, 20.2 ave, 51.6 max