Sept 18/09

Finally finished. I finished the ride two weeks ago and have now completed all my entries including pictures into thisblog. Unless I find some big mistakes I won't be making any changes to it.

I thought I'd also answer some frequently asked questions:

- No, I did not ride back home. I flew back.

- My bike weighed about 30lbs and my gear about 50 lbs. One full rear pannier was food. Even though I could and did buy groceries everyday I always had a full bag.

- Stats;
Total distance: 8150.6 km.
Total number of days: 71 days therefore 115 km/day
Number of riding days: 64 days therefore 127 km/day
Longest day: Northern Ontario, 195.75 km, 9:46 hrs


- Where did I stay? Camped 35 nights, Hostels 17 nights, Motels 13 nights, Other 6 nights. (I thought I'd guerilla camp more often but like motels it is quite lonely. I also wanted to take a long shower at the end of each ride, something that can be difficult when you're guerilla camping.)

- Did I lose any weight? I wasn't trying to and it never crossed my mind until I got home and people asked me this question. I did lose about 5-10 lbs but I will likely gain it all back within the next few weeks.

Wednesday September 2, HOME, Burnaby, BC

Last night Sebastian, Chris and I went down to George St to celebrate. One bar was lined up so we figured it must be the best one. Actually it was $2 Tuesday so we drank $2 bottles of beer until it closed. Somehow the three of us lost each other at closing time and we walked back to the hostel separately and arrived from 3 different directions within minutes of each other. I set the alarm for 3 hours later to catch the airplane home. Slightly rushed and may have left a few things behind but made it away. The plane went directly to Calgary with dozens of babies and toddlers on board then 20 minutes later on to Vancouver. Mark picked me up. My bike and luggage arrived with me and undamaged. Spent most of the afternoon catching up with everyone by phone and in person. It's good to see everyone but I could do it all over again starting tomorrow. Unfortunately I have to go back to work tomorrow.

Tuesday September 1, St. John's NL

Rode out to the mall - dollar store for tape and duffel bag. Somebody could make a lot of money putting those stores closer to town. Got what i needed including a new watch without too much trouble. It's funny, store clerks are quick to recommend other stores to satisfy you instead of pushing you to buy what they have. Put the bike in the box but not until taking just about everything off it. I began thinking wheels and handlebars but it also included chainrings, 3 racks, 2 fenders, seat, derailleur, quick release mechanisms and pedals. Did the work on the sidewalk with a neighbour and then with a guy (Sebastian) from Sherbrook who rode from Anchorage!! to here. We are both finished and ready to celebrate.

OD 7905.4 (plus Victoria is well over 8000 km)

Monday August 31 St John's NL

Got up to begin the long task of packing up. Normally pretty quick when leaving a motel but with everything drying including maps and my wallet it takes a long time. Rode downtown, finally saw some pavement older than two years, in less than 20 minutes to City Hall where they have the Mile 0 marker. The sign was nearly impossible to find however it is next door to their Mile One arena which makes sense I guess. Nest went to the hostel I booked for the next two nights. It is unsigned and in the middle of a residential cu-de-sac. It is typical of any of the row houses you see. Slanted floors, hundred years of on-going renovations and very colourful. Met the manager and later the owner. Unpacked and rode out to Cape Spears with no gear on my bike. The bike feels funny without 50 lbs trying to slow it down or laugh at me when a traffic light turns green. Nice ride to the Cape - yes fresh pavement for most of it. As I got there for the 100th time my camera batteries died when a women and I exchanged cameras to take pictures of each other. I swear the batteries die every time I hand the camera to some one. She gave me a spare pair of batteries (since I had no gear with me) and a few minutes later I found a gift shop (where isn't there a gift shop?) and bought some batteries but I couldn't find her to return the ones she gave me. Rode back to the hostel b/c I wanted to get a bike box before it became a panic. One store said none, the other got me the only 700 cm box they had but I have a feeling it will be too small. We;ll see. Came back to have dinner and spent some time with the owner and an electrician estimating the costs of some renovations. He was bilingual - English and Newfie who said "Gawd's 'onest truth, I'd rather shoot myself than 'wire this house." The owner is having a hard time getting insurance b/c the wiring is so old. He left and later Carola left and I had the house to myself. I was wondering if I were the only guest here. Rode to Signal Hill and the Battery neighbourhood. Lots of people run/ walk the route. It must be like their Grouse Grind. 400 to 100 years ago it was probably the perfect defense and harbour but today it just seems too small to be a working harbour. Went for a walk and back to the house. I was still the only one there. Just as I was about to got to bed a young guy visiting from Alberta came in. I guess the two of us have this house to ourselves.

OD 7897.4 km, 52.36 km, 65.0 max

Sunday August 30 Mount Pearl, NL

(Photo: the moon over my campsite)

Light rain on and off overnight but windy, especially here at the edge of the pond so gear is 99% dry. Got going about 8:30 with a forecast that I had that said rain beginning tonight. Not so, 15 minutes into the ride or should I say before leaving the comfort stn at the campground, it starting raining and raining hard. Got to the InforCentre at the TCH soaking wet and was told that we were getting the tail of Hurricane Dan. I didn't know that was in the forecast. Rode another hour in the rain and noticed a minivan with a utility trailer blocking the shoulder of the road. The woman passenger got out and offered me a ride ("the trailer is for your bike" she said). I thanked her, she understood my determination/ stubbornness and off they went. I went a little further and stopped in a tunnel/ underpass, ate and the rain just about stopped. Got back on the road and the wind was unlike anything I have had so far (latter found out 60 -80 km/hr). I thought it was going to pick my bike up off the ground and throw me out onto the road. I preferred it when the road turned southward and it hit me head on and slowed me to ~ 7 km/hr instead of at the side. When I had some cliffs or trees to block the wind somewhat it was bearable but when I was crossing a stretch between ponds (or on a causeway) I was forced to walk! Yes, walk!! My first time this whole trip. Rain started up again, luckily the spray from vehicles did not soak me as their spray all went to one side away form me. I decided to stop at the neXt overpass (more overpasses on this stretch of TCH than all of Sask, Manitoba and Ontario) to find two guys trying to jump start their p/u truck. We talked for a while and they offered me a ride. I took it and they dropped me off at the only place they knew in the suburb of Mount Pearl. Warming up, drying off and doing laundry now.

OD 7845.0 km, 5:40:00, 89.60 km, 15.5 ave, 38.1 max

Sat August 29 Dunville, NL

Took quite a while to fall asleep last night in the dorm not due to dorm mates, the sea or anything external just excited I guess. Without a watch or knowing the time change I don't know when i got up but I think it was pretty late. Beautiful sunny day outside with not much wind. Saw Patrick sleeping behind the model ship display and later we spent the rest of the voyage together. Car deck seems pretty full but passenger decks are pretty empty. Got off the boat in my street clothes so I went to the terminal to change. Two other cyclists were boarding- I didn't get a chance to talk to them - and two others arrived. She is from Kamloops and he is from Toronto they are doing a short fly-bike-rentacar-train trip with the bike portion from St. John's to Halifax. I don't think he knows the first thing about camping or cycling. Boat docked after 2:00 pm so it was a short cycling day for me. The geography and weather are remarkably different after travelling 14 hrs due north. Sometimes is looks like Nunavut, often like northern Ontario without the granite outcrops. The roads don't look like N Ont though. I guess when you are a have-not province you get a lot of federal money to put wide straight highways through the forests serving just a few. Love the way clerks etc call me dear, darling and hon in NS and NF. Don't think you could get away with that anywhere else. Funny sprawling campground here. The owner led me to a few walk in sites by the "pond" but most are RV's on what could be described as a gravel parking lots with acres and acres of bush all around and a mile of gravel roads running all over. I had to walk ~500 m (or drive 1 km) to the showers and tap water.

OD 7755.4 km, 1:23:02, 26.94 km, 19.4 ave, 49.0 max

Friday August 28 MV Joseph and Clara Smallwood, ferry from North Sydney to Argentia, NL

In no rush this morning as I don't need to go far and have until 9:00 pm to check in at the ferry. It rained some on and off last night but with the wind everything is dry. Wind is still really strong, it makes even preparing and eating food a problem as everything gets blown off the table like my helmet and even a peanut butter jar. Took a short cable ferry at Englishtown to save a few kms and met up with a group of cyclists on a guided loop of the Cabot Trail - the package included a van, bikes and a guide for the 5 of them from all over the US (but I assume friends) Stopped at a real restaurant for a late lunch as I was not going to make something in the wind especially if I need to get out my stove and everything. The last part of the ride was back on the TCH, so out came the MP3 player. Great scenery and it climbed over "mountains" and dropped down to cross fingers of Bras D'Or Lakes. Got to N Sidney about 5:00 pm. The bike guide told me N Sydney had no shops or services but he probably hasn't been here for a while. The liquor store, groc store etc are out at the mall at the edge of town. I even found stove fuel. As I was about to get to the boat, Patrick called out to me to join him for some pizza. Patrick is from Trois Riveries and hitchhiking around. I met him at Cheticamp and saw him on the road the next day. He spent today at Louisberg. He is thinking of going to St John's then west to Port a Basque or wherever his driver takes him (Labrador perhaps) The ferry is larger than I expected, slow to load. older but comfortable. I got a dorm-sleeper which is a room with ~50 bunk beds. Each plastic mattress has a pillow and a fleece blanket that doesn't have the same dimensions as the mattress. I loaded with the motorcycles and a group of ATV's. As we had to wait until they loaded the top deck we got to know each other pretty well. I was the only bike and by the actions of the crew you would think the only one this year.

OD 7728.4 km, 6:40:48, 120.19 km, 17.9 ave, 55.0 max

Thursday August 27 Broad Cove Campground, Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Epic ride today. Saw a number of cyclists out today soaking up some hills, wind and switchbacks. No problems at all with my gears and shifter. After two days of wondering if and when the chain would shift now its smooth shifting without a squeak, click or hesitation. Not so with the front tire - 3rd flat in about 5 days which cannot be attributed to bad roads or bad luck but only a tire which has come to the end of its life. Deposited tire at an emergency hut and put on my emergency spare. Will ride without a spare tire for the next 5 days. Yep only 5 days of riding left. If only I could make a couple dollars doing this then I could do it for ever. Today's ride was all in the park except for a couple villages just outside the boundaries where you can get groceries, B&B's, souvenirs and see a thousand billboards. Found out why they call this the "Highlands" Natl Park. Today had four major climbs from sea level to ~ 400 m at 11%, 13%, 8% and 6% grades. I believe them including the 13%. The wind was very strong today with gusts up to at least 60 km/hr. It was from the NE but with the valleys, open water, highlands, passes and ridges it seemed to come from anywhere and not at all. On the 13% down I had to ride my brakes as hard as I could for most of it. I stopped to let some cars pass and had to drag my foot to come to a complete stop. I think on a perfect day on a road bike without gear you could hit 100 km/hr. Luckily there were few cars around so taking the entire lane was easy to do. The guy at the campground booth says they are adding wider shoulders every time they repave so it will only get better. The park has about 25 trail heads and 50 "look offs" so I spent most of the day taking mini-breaks. No long lunches, on the bike from 8 to 5 pm but only 6 hours pedalling so nearly 3 hours being a tourist - including time at the Scot's tartan shop. Only did 105 kms too!! But the boat tomorrow night is only 130 km away. In the tent now, dark ~8:00 pm. So cool that I wore my jacket all day and my pants tonight. It's trying to rain tonight, tried a few times today and a few times last night, 8C when I got up this morning.

OD 7608.2 km, 6:04:10, 104.93 km, 17.2 ave, 62.9 max

Wed August 26 Cape Breton Highlands National Park (just north of Cheticamp NS)

(Photo: Winds picking up)

Got going at a reasonable hour with dry gear and a strong wind at my back. Lots of riding along the water and some white caps building up. However after 60 days or whatever I finally had my first mechanical breakdown. After the PEI dirt and the remains of Hurricane Bill my rear shifter started acting up. It didn't want to do the smallest and largest cogs in the rear. I was blaming it on dirt, 7000+km etc but no the problem was the cable at the shifter (handlebar) end. It snapped leaving me in the smallest cog. My choices: ride for days in 3 gears (maybe) or get to town about 10 km away - Cheticamp - and see what they could do. Luckily the town is the largest I've seen for a few days but of course not big enough for a bike store. I went to the dollar store they had no cable but I did get a few mini screwdrivers etc. The owner said "Yvon can fix it" she got on the phone but couldn't reach him so she sent me to the C0-op hardware store and if no luck there then she said go to the car wash where he works. I went to the hardware store, they had no cable but spent at least 15 minutes tracking Yvon down. They said he was at work, call him after 4:00and he will set you up. Of course I also got a flat tire in the midst of all this, so I fixed the flat, picked up beer, groceries, InfoCentre and decided I would get a campsite and get the bike repaired. Spent some time on it including learning time as I have never repaired that type of shifter/ brake lever. Yvon came, set me up with the cable and extra housing. We had a couple beers and chatted for a while. I gave him some money and he gave me some extra cable just in case for the front cable. After he left I put it all together and I got all 27 gears again, smooth shifting too. May need to make a few adjustments tomorrow but it should be a day and a half to the ferry and I got two days. Met some interesting people today (the Scarecrow guy, Patrick for Trois Riveries and a guy from Minnesota who is solo car camping) Once again, not a very busy National Park campground especially at $30+ per night. Maybe the other side with the RV's, wardens, evening programs etc is busier than this side.

OD 7503.2 km, 2:44:50, 57.74 km, 20.9 ave, 56.0 max

Tuesday August 25 Inverness NS

Got up early to try to adjust to the shorter days to find it was very foggy outside. Luckily the fog burned off very quickly but everything was still very wet. As I was riding out of town I hit a pothole and it sounded like I dropped something. Everything seemed to be in place so I continued on and later found that it was my watch that I had attached to the handlebars that I lost. A while latter my MP3 (FM radio) wouldn't work. Now I figured I had no way of knowing the date or time. My spedometer has a clock but I don't know how to set it, all I know is that it is wrong. Luckily I fixed my MP3 and found my spedometer is only 15 minutes out. I'll use this book to keep track of the days. Got off the freeway - TCH for most of the morning - crossed the Canso Causeway to the "Island" and I am beginning my clockwise loop including the Cabot Trail. Trail? Maybe when it was built to join all the ports 75 years ago but it is a Hwy. Luckily few RV's almost no trucks and only a couple Harley's. Met a couple from White Rock who are doing the same as me in their RV - same pace, no plans, just meeting people and taking things as they come. Also saw them at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Jedique where they have free Celtic music concerts everyday at lunch. Unfortunately we only saw the last bit before they wrapped it up. Seems to be lots of Cape Breton Celtic music everywhere. I'm thinking they sell this area as one of the greatest (automobile) drives in North America but the arts may be better than the geography. I wanted to finish my ride on the early side today but missed the campground (This scenic drive needs to see how they over do signage on PEI) so had to go to the next one. Got here at a reasonable time and it is worth it. They have ~35 cabins and campsites and ~ 1/2 km of their own beach below the cliffs and sand dunes. Amazing sunset after days of rain and days of humidity haze.

OD 7445.2 km, 7:06:26, 146.59, 20.6 ave, 55.0 max

Monday August 24 Antigonish NS

Got up early to no rain and a favourable forecast. With 3 flights of stairs and 1/2 dozen doors etc didn't get going until ~8:30. The route to the ferry was mostly along the TCH but there was very little traffic and very few trucks. Pleasant ride (could say that about all of PEI) until the rain started. It was coming down pretty hard at 11:30 when I arrived for the 1230 ferry. The employees told me I could take my time and get on the ferry anytime but the announcements told people to get to their cars to prepare to load. Everyone was rushing around in the rain so I inhaled some food and joined the rush. I got on the ferry first (like BC Ferries) but I could have waited and got on at any time. It is much like the Vancouver to Vancouver Island ferries - they turn them around every two hours, these ones are just a little smaller. The big difference is they have live music - East Coast fiddle music complete with PEI jabs between jigs and marches. Kept raining while on the boat and for a while after but stopped about 2:30. The InfoCentre people (one on the boat and the one near Pictou) here are not the usual 20-something year old girls but 50-something year old women that are genuinely worried about me and especially with me not making plans or reservations. I had to choose between stopping at ~2:30 or pushing on another 50 km to Antigonish. I pushed on and then it started raining again at ~4:30. On a busy TCH most of the time (the old highway for some of the time)with my MP3 earplugs today. Got into town, got a few groceries and tempted to camp but saw a motel and went in. Rain seemed to stop almost immediately but it was 6:30 when I checked in and it gets dark just past 8:00 pm now. I must change my schedule! Nice motel but the room has no fridge, microwave or even a coffee maker. Good thing I got my gas stove.

OD 7298.6 km, 6:47:01, 147.61 km, 21.7 ave, 53.3 max

Sunday August 23 Charlottetown PEI

Woke up to no rain and decided it was a good time to change tires, fix a slow leak and clean the PEI-dirt off my bike. It started to rain so I did it mostly in my room and in the hall in the basement. Rain only lasted 15 minutes so soon I was out being a tourist in town. Rain and wind finally came in the afternoon but you could hardly call it a hurricane. Power went out for a few minutes. I don't think there was anymore rain than some of my northern Ontario days but I'm glad I wasn't trying to ride in that wind. Spent most of the day eating, reading and talking on the phone.

No riding.

Saturday Aug 22 Charlottetown PEI

Uncomfortable sleep last night mostly due to the humidity. Had the fly pulled back until midnight when the south wind picked up and thunder and lightning approached. Rain didn't arrive, just more humidity and in a closed tent. Got up really early to see the sun rise and explore to find most of the campers up early and packing up (?!) Wind was really strong from the south and the hurricane was expected but not so soon so I don't know why people were in such a rush. Took the long route across the north shore then headed into the wind to Charlottetown. I kept watching the sky wondering when the rain would start. Lots to see in the Natl Park from Anne of Green Gables to Victorian Inn not to mention all the beaches, dunes, swimming areas and cycling trails. Finally decided to turn into the wind and head into town. I was going to get on the Hwy to see all the ice cream parlours, used car lots and big boxes but thought I'd use the Confederation Trail for a bit. Ending up taking the Trail all the way to within a couple blocks of the apartment so i didn't really see the city at all. (Did see the NRC/ U of PEI building, a few factory outlets and a few sport facilities) This apartment is at the edge of the old city so I will see more of that tomorrow. Most of what I did see outside of the old city seems rundown with lots of vacant stores. This building is circa 1865, split into 9 little suites, 3 on each floor owned and run by a hardworking guy who lives out of town. When I arrived in town the clouds disappeared, most don't believe a storm is coming but the weather channel is saying up to 100 mm of rain (but no hurricane) tomorrow so I will stay here tomorrow, keep dry and be a tourist as much as I can.

OD 7151.0 km, 4:26:29, 82.03 km, 18.4 ave, 52.3 max

Friday August 21 PEI National Park (Cavendish)

First up and out from the campground this morning. I noticed yesterday on the map that PEI has "scenic heritage roads." Apparently they are narrow, PEI-dirt, tree lined roads probably often used for movie sets. I decided to try one out. Yep, just like it says, rather difficult to negotiate on skinny tires when it's dry deep sand. Some of it was damp so now my bike is covered with the red soil. I finished the North Loop and stopped at an InfoCentre where I found out the season's first hurricane is approaching and may arrive Saturday evening with 100 mm of rain. Time to try to find a place in Charlottetown, on a weekend, Canada Games in town and probably every camper like me looking for shelter. Got on the phone and I think I found one for tomorrow night. Rode mostly along the main Hwy #2 this morning to Kensington where I did my shopping then headed out to the North coast as a long way to Charlottetown. I arrived at the park later than I had planned, luckily they had campsites open (few motels, B&B's etc along the way had vacancies.) Didn't have much time to explore the park, just a swim in the shallow water. This camp ground seems to be French / Acadian so I'm saying my bonjours all over again. I'm in the heart of Anne of Green Gables territory - who knew it was so popular in French too.

7068.9 km!, 6:18:00, 130.73 km, 20.7 ave, 48.9 max

Thursday August 20 Mill River Prov. Park (Woodstock, PEI)

Slept well with the sounds, winds and smells of the ocean. Got going fairly early b/c I knew it was probably going to be a long day. Lots of kitschy stuff and stops that I just went by like Quilting Museums and E.M. Mongomery's house that she lived in for one year. Stopped in Alberton - good thing as it is probably the only "town" on this end of the island. Picked up baked goods, beer and groceries and didn't see anything other than a general store near the end of the day. Not too may campgrounds on this end of the island either. Saw two private ones that had no trees and Jacques Cartier Prov Park which was quite similar to last night Prov Park and even tonight's Prov Park. This campground is not on the ocean but I had to take it as it was nearly 6:30 pm when I got here. Made it up to North Cape and even Skinners Pond today. Used the abandoned r/r (Confederation Trail) and it is a possibility, even though it is gravel is quite fast, flat of course, straight but not very scenic. May have to adjust my daily schedule as the days are getting shorter. 7 1/2 hr riding days no longer give me enough time to get cleaned up and eat before it is dark.

OD 6938.1 km, 7:34:02, 144.68 km, 19.1 ave, 41.4 max

Wed August 19 Green Park Prov Park, PEI

(Photo: my domestiques)

Slept well last night with the AC and a full belly, got up early and got going. The route to the Confederation Bridge is pretty flat, along fairly major highways and with the wind at my back most of the time I did the 65 km at a 28 km/hr average. Got the shuttle (12 passenger van and trailer for bikes) to PEI to find that the PEI end of the bridge was like an amusement park - excited people running from T-shirt building to ice cream parlour to info centre etc. Even fender benders in the parking lot and angry people arguing with their spouses. InfoCentre people helpful, probably most of us forgetting we are on a tiny island so most questions must seem stupid to them. Like NB they have 4 scenic routes. Better than anywhere else, the r/r has been abandoned completely so there is and end to end bike-ped route with "spur lines" to the cities and ports. Unfortunately it is mostly gravel so I won't be using it. Rode out to Summerside and the "North Cape Coastal Drive". Summerside is hosting the Canada Games at the moment - I believe Charlottetown next week. As I arrived a group of roadies caught up to me as they were practising the road race course. I drafted them for a while - my domestiques - until I saw a liquor store sign. Knowing how difficult it was to find beer in NB I let them go while I did my shopping for dinner. Found out later PEI puts the liquor store directions on the tourist directional signs like they are just another gas stn., museum or B&B. People here are great - near the bridge they ignore the tourists but everywhere else they wave from their porches, mailboxes, from the car. Everyone wants to chat and top up my water bottles. As it was getting close to "quitting time" I headed for this Prov Park. When I was about 6 km away the humid weather with hazy visibility turned to a shower. At first I was liking the light rain and its cooling effect. The clouds didn't look too dark but fearing it could turn to heavy rain I started looking for a place to hide. The sides of farm roads were mostly swampy, impassable ditches or driveways to houses that I didn't really want to use. Then I crossed the bike - ped (r/r) route and it had a covered picnic table. Perfect. The cover wasn't much bigger than the table but when it started to pour and hail briefly, I had to stand on the table, in the downwind corner to keep dry. I made a couple ham and cheese bagels and by the time I was ready to eat them the sun was shining again. Made it to the park to find yet another campground that is under used. They have a couple dozen hut-cabins (I think one in use) a couple dozen unserviced sites - only me and another tent but I haven't seen a person there, and a couple dozen serviced sites (I didn't go over there but they might have 4 RVs.) I'm on the beach - hopefully not a 15m tide here - the swimming is not that great b/c the water is only ~1 foot deep, however I did see 2 party boats - one fishing type boat with about 20 kids jumping from the roof of the cabin. Looks like this campground will be a freebie as the "ranger" just went by in a golf cart cart, said hello and kept going. Twice. I might have a curious skunk in the neighbourhood though.

OD 6793.4 km, 7:09:19, 166.02 km, 23.1 ave, 54.1 max

Tuesday August 18 Sackville NB

Appropriate town name for how I'm feeling. Don't know if it's the heat (38+ on the humidex), trying to be a tourist, all the steep climbs on the side roads or what but for the first time I don't feel like riding. Slept late (cool and windy by the water) lounged around, finally got going and then finished early. Went through Moncton (quite large) and Dieppe (quite Acadian) but generally around and over the chocolate coloured rivers of Petitcodiac and another smaller one. Stopped at the Hopewell Rocks to find they have acres of parking, shuttle buses and gates that look like some kind of amusement park. Unfortunately I would have to spend 24+ hrs there to see it (Mon pm to Wed am actually) but seeing the entrance is enough for me. I wonder if someone could walk to it from the campground, especially for a 5 am low tide? Maybe next time. I think I got the last room here in Sackville as the rest are taken by the road construction crew. Did some chores and wandered about the town. Didn't know they had a big old university here (Mt Allison)- it looks like it could be an "Ivy League" school due to the age and architecture.

OD 6627.4 km, 5:20:34, 103.56 km, 19.3 ave, 51.6 max

Monday August 17 Hopewell Cape NB

Pulled the tent fly back last night and slept with the mosquito net over me. Thought I'd sleep until the dew got me but it never came. I guess I haven't figured out this dew thing after all. Could see the stars but it never cooled enough to make sleeping comfortable until ~3:00 am. tonight I am near the water at Hopewell Cape, the mist-fog is in and the wind is really blowing so it should be cool temps for sleeping. Hopefully not too much thwack-thwack from the tent in the wind. Got my fleece jacket on tonight. I could have made it too Fundy yesterday - 24 km to the park entrance and there is a small tenting campground right there - no showers but there is a lake. Took a swim in the next lake - Bennett Lake I believe then rode on to the Headquarters near the exit of the park. It seemed like 40 km of uphill from the start and then 4 km of downhill to the water - great downhill with some really tight turns. Decided to do the out and back to Wolfe Pt. Lots of steep climbs but not much to see at the end. Headed out, picked up supplies in Alma - a small tourist town on the edge of the National Park. I can now spot the NB liquor store emblem when it's `6" lettering, way back from the road in a 4 block strip of stores and signs. Kind of like Ontario's outlets except the LCBO isn't in neon. Took a 6.5 km out and back to Cape Enrage/ lighthouse. I think I found the steepest climbs yet. They are probably the hiking trails from 100 years ago. Why the road crossed 2 creeks and 3 headlands I'll never know. Apparently this was voted the best views in Canada but it was fog enshrouded so I'll never know. It probably is pretty spectacular but all I wanted to do was eat - refuel form those climbs and headwinds. Got back on the main road and headed for the campground at Hopewell Cape and noticed a funny sound and bump-bump from the back tire. I was afraid to look thinking maybe ignorance is bliss but knew I had to find out. I couldn't believe what I saw: the tread was peeling off the tire exposing the nylon etc of the tire. I figured the tube would find it's way out and boom at any second or if I was lucky just a simple puncture. I kept my speed down, thinking about all the hills I flew down earlier, especially the ones with the sharp turns. Made it to the campground and replaced the tire with my spare in the comfort of my campsite.

OD 6523.7 km, 6:39:39, 124.97km, 18.7 ave, 65.5 max

Sunday August 16 Penobsquis NB

(Photo; the r/r bridge converted to a bike/ped bridge)

Difficult time sleeping last night due to the heat and humidity. It was still hot in the room in the morning but rather pleasant outside so I got rolling as quick as I could. Took the abandoned r/r and bridge to the other side of the river and got onto the #105. Not long after a woman on a road bike caught up to me so I drafted her as we chatted for about an hour. If only I could do the entire trip drafting someone at 30 - 32 km/hr. I then took some back roads from Jemseg to Sussex. The map said taking the main highway it is 115 km. Taking my short cut it was 114 km. Ha! The shortcut was basically a paved logging road, or at least paved at one time and now patched every year with the occasional section of tar and gravel - chip seal I think they call it. Pretty rough but traffic light so I could ride on the driven portion most of the time. Absolutely no services or houses along that route. Hydro poles only near the ends. It appears they log here just like in BC - clearcuts with one or two lone trees left standing and viewscapes - where they leave ~10 m uncut along the sides of the road so you don't notice the clearcut behind. Got to Sussex spent some time at the InfoCentre, ice cream shack, last chance grocery store and found a liquor store! Open on the Sabbath!! Bought 2 cans of beer (Slurpee size) Also found the best place to go on hot days - the walk in cooler at the liquor store. Didn't think I could make it to Fundy National Park so I stopped here at a campground. Apparently I am lucky I didn't arrive 1-2 days earlier as there was a big flea market in town wrapping up and they had taken nearly every motel and campsite around. Settled by 4:30 so lots of time to read up on the attractions ahead, clean my bike and such. Heat wave may be ending - when I called Dawn I could see some dark clouds covering half of the sky and hear thunder in the distance. Amazing how 100+ campers can quickly and quietly make everything secure and move inside their trailers. Two drops of rain fell on me and that seems to be the end except the humidity is now higher, the temperature too probably and the mosquitoes have forced me inside the tent where it is even hotter still. Will get to Fundy early tomorrow but may go Hopewell Cape/ Rocks.

OD 6398.7 km, 6:21:39, 137.50 km, 21.6 ave, 65.2 max

Saturday August 15 Fredericton NB

Slept late as the heat makes it hard to fall asleep. Got rolling on the #165 which is obviously the old TCH with maybe two motels struggling. I hardly saw a car in either direction more often than one every 3 minutes. Unfortunately the #165 becomes a cul-de-sac so I was forced onto the freeway. Pulled out my MP3 player, turned up the volume and rolled along the smooth new pavement. Happy to get off 10 km later, crossed the river and made my own route rather than the tourist Scenic Route. It was quite a bit longer and the road was so bumpy that I often rode in the middle of the lane. Eventually made it to Fredericton and I am quite surprised that it is so small. With the Fathers of Confederation and all that, the Prov Legislature and 200 and some years it's not any bigger than some one industry resource towns. Took the guided walking tour of the Garrison District then ate at the pub and did some of the self guided walking tours. Also had a BBQ hamburger in the Park as they were celebrating Acadian Day. It's true, NB is the only bilingual province. Staying at a hostel again - I don't know why I think they will have AC, of course they don't. This one is really what we call an SRO in Vancouver. It's a mix of HI, Backpackers hostel and tenants in a large apt building (Temp ~ 32C and the girls at the InfoCentre say 38 on the humidex)

OD 6261.2 km, 5:50:50, 119.54 km, 20.4 ave, 62.2 max

Friday August 14 Woodstock NB

Well summer is finally here. Over 32C and tomorrow to be warmer. Filling and refilling my 3 water bottles throughout the day whenever I can. Since Alberta the 3 were usually all I needed for the ride. Still following "the old TCH" and getting lots of advice from locals - the InfoCentres are great for handing out pamphlets but can't answer even simple questions. Mostly farmland today, crossing the St John River a few times including the longest covered bridge in the world at Hartland. I miss Quebec's way of selling beer - just go anywhere including the campground convenience store or any gas stn a buy a couple cans for the night. I've now been here 3 days and have yet to find an ANBL outlet. It's probably easier to buy beer in Nunavut (where they have dry communities). Or maybe everyone drinks at the pub. I went out for "Steak and a Stein" at the pub - beer is only $3.10 a pint. Decided to take a bed at the hostel thinking it would have AC. Nope, but at least it's ground floor so I should survive. It's an old building with some retail on the ground floor and the rest is apt/ student dorms. I got my own room and everything else is shared. Only ~6 people here and only a couple of "hello's." Strange.

OD 6141.7 km, 6:16:11, 118.76 km, 18.9 ave, 58.0 max

Thursday August 13 Grand Falls/ Grand-Sault NB

Finally in the Maritimes and it seems that summer has arrived. Even the locals agree that it finally feels like summer. Today's route basically followed the St John River which is also the border to Maine/ USA. Here at Grand Falls the border changes to a degree of longitude and I have crossed the River. The map shows a freeway that I don't care to use and a somewhat confusing scenic route. They gave me some pamphlets at the Edmunston InfoCentre but not much info so I'm trying to sort through the magazines, maps and such. Apparently the #2 Freeway TCH is only a couple years old which would explain why the roads that I have been on are pretty wide and in relatively good shape. I think I will stay on the scenic route even though the campground owner says bikes are allowed on #2 and it's much faster/ shorter. Today could be summed up as unremarkable. Maybe after 50 days or so on the road that is a good thing ie no dangerous roads, crazy people or bad weather. The NB highways could use a few picnic tables and bathrooms though. Every Quebec town seemed to try to out do each other with their road side stops (rotisseries or something they called them) but not one that I can think of since arriving in NB. Seeing trains again - was there a strike? I do have to get to a phone to do some catching up and plan making, The one at this campground is the home phone and everyone is in the next room watching TV or in the kitchen.

OD 6022.9 km, 6:38:16, 134.46 km, 20.2 ave, 54.2 max

Wed August 12 St. Marc du Lac Long PQ

(Typical lunch spot)

Got up at 7:00 am to sunshine, Difficult to get up earlier and respect the quiet hours, Didn't see G stir and did not see S (but she is camped further away). Good scenic ride along the St Lawrence at times right against the water. Wonder what happens during big wind storms? Turned away and headed in land just before noon. I could feel the temperature rising and the heat of the sun immediately. Lots of rolling hills, lots of picnic stops and still some head winds. Took a campsite ~ 20 km from New Brunswick border. Saw lots of cyclists again today. Many with full panniers all heading the other direction. I should have stopped to talk to one guy who had 4 big panniers and a full trailer! When I arrived at this campground the guy gave me a choice of a site right on the water or a larger one 30 m away. The one on the water was pretty nice but too close to others. Later I realized that there are about 20 trailers here but only ~ 3 have people here, the rest are empty until the w/e I guess. Looks like two super long days to Fredericton. Went for a swim when I got here. I haven't been able to do that as much as I expected (Oosoyos, Grand Forks, Lake of the Prairies, Whiteshell Park, Pancake Bay, Mackay and here - could have at Hope and North Bay)

OD 5888.2 km, 6:54:50, 124.4 km, 19.0 ave, 54.8 max.

Tuesday August 11 Riviere Ouelle (Municipal Campground with over 200 sites, pool, on the St. Laurence River)

Spent most of last night hanging out at the little pub downstairs until closing time which is about 11;30. Big hostel and only ~ 10 people both nights. Based on my 7 room mates I am the late owl but I doubt that with Quebec's night life, First up (I had to open the kitchen) and got out to the bike to discover another slow leak on the front - changed tube, rode around the old city and on the ferry at 8:00 am. Great off road bike route (former r/r) in Levis and yet again great La Route Vert and Hwy #132. Didn't get as far as I had hoped due to head winds. Like going into Quebec, La Route Verte got me again with a ~20 km gravel section. Caught up to a young girl from Markham doing the trip solo from mid May to mid September!!! We rode together for a while but when we got to the road for the last 12 km to the campground she fell way back as expected. She is well prepared (all the right maps, makes campground reservations etc) unlike me and travels light (2 rear bags and a foamy). I got to the campground and noticed another solo cyclists across from me, however another neighbour came over and asked me if I wanted some of their leftovers so I sat with them for a while, Chatted later with the two solo cyclists then had some beer with G. He is doing a short trip from Quebec to Labrador or Newfoundland via the Gaspe Peninsula but he has had bike problems and knee problems already and it's only been two days. It feels like summer is fading - when Kevin and I rode in the Fraser Valley you could hardly tell that the plants in the fields were corn b/c they were so small and now I sometimes can't see the horizon b/c the corn is so tall. And also once again I am writing this in the tent just after 9:00 pm b/c it gets dark at 8:30. Even ate my dinner and washed dishes in the dark tonight. Looking at the map I may be able to get to Edmunston NB tomorrow if everything goes well.

OD 5763.8 km, 7:24:40, 138.13 km, 18.6 ave, 46.1 max